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The Ultimate Cure for Orange Peel

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 8:33 pm
I've been struggling trying to get the paint to spray correctly so I don't get any runs, and get minimum orange peel because I can live with some peel. It's the runs that I've been staying away from since the procedure to fix them is more involved than I want to do.
However, orange peel is just the opposite of runs correct? The paint doesn't flow enough for the "clumps" of paint to flow together, resulting in the bumpy appearance.
Image


So if this is true, wont simply adding more reducer to thin out the paint, letting it flow out more to "connect the dots" of the orange peel cure it?
It makes sense to me. I'll have to try it the next time I paint.
There is no one right way to paint a car, but there are a whole lot of wrong ways



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:33 pm
Before you start adjusting your reductions, I would suggest looking at your product and ensuring that you are using the proper activators and reducers for you temperatures. Also, take the time to adjust your gun properly. Ninety five percent of the time, it's not the products fault but the one holding the gun. That means that this is a perfect time to become more knowledgeable about painting.

Yes, reducing more will make it flow out but it will also make your film build lower therefore requiring more coats to achieve the proper thickness and leading to more opportunities for problems.



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:51 pm
i don't know mush about painting but couldn't you sand the peel to where the paint is flat with the body work?



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:11 pm
Thats not orange peel...thats the new textured everybodys been raving about......ouch!!!!



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:15 pm
What are you spraying?

Don't just over-reduce, learn how to properly adjust your gun and how to correctly spray once your gun is adjusted right...
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:31 am
I have to echo the comment about going back to the tech sheets and maybe consider that you may have made a mistake mixing the paint that is shown in the picture. It would be difficult to immagine that you had the gun misadjusted so badly that it caused that much texture so maybe there was a mixup in the ratio when mixing. That said it just looks like it need more reducer or a slower reducer might have solved the problem. Just out of curiosity, what materials were you using and how hot was it when you sprayed that?



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:02 am
Well the first thing to understand is orange peel is NOT the opposite of a run. And the old line about a smooth paint job is a "controled run" is BS. As well as "flow out" is WAY over used and misunderstood.

As said here a number of different ways, ADJUST YOUR GUN!

Let me ask you this about over reducing. If a paint rep comes in and shoots a demo in your shop trying to SELL his product, do you think he over reduces going off the tech sheet? Well the answer is NO. Do you think he does anything different than what is on that tech sheet? The answer is NO.

And do you think he is going to go do demos that look like hell covered in orange peel? The answer is NO.

He sets the PROPER gun up PROPERLY and shoots the stuff out looking good.

It isn't about "flow" and spraying it so it is about to run, that is BS.

If sprayed correctly with a proper gun set up you can't get a run to save your life! You will NOT get a run because you are breaking the product up into tiny droplets that are hitting the panel creating a nice flat film and that is how it will stay.

Here is setting up your gun in a nutshell.
http://www.autobody101.com/articles/art ... tomization
Brian
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"Hitting the pavement at 100 mph really smarts"
Evel Knievel

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:16 am
When you get into over reducing your applying much less clear, giving you less film build. If you don't hit the necessary mil thickness you could be in for trouble. I have seen people do this but I've also seen there paint jobs come back fading.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 11:30 am
While on this subject I have a couple of questions as well.
When spraying base I set my gun up and spray test patterns (Martinsr's article) until I get a good fine spray. This lays down perfectly and I have had no problems with runs or orange peel. I spray light coats with 60% overlap and don't worry about total coverage on the first coat. However, when I switch to spraying clear I have difficulty setting up the gun and getting it to lay out smooth.
Here are my questions:
1. Should spraying clear coat be done in exactly the same manner as base?
2. How can I see the droplets better when trying to adjust the gun?
1968 Coronet R/T - a work in progress.


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 6:20 pm
Use green masking paper to check pattern and droplet size for clear. It will show up better than white. If you wanted to be real picky you could mix up your clear and set a small amount aside. Add a few drops of a solid tint into it and check your pattern with it. It would be a tinted clear. Just make sure to clean your gun before you shoot the car. :shock:

Your droplets don't have to be super small or you will have dry spray. It should feel like the gun is doing the work, you shouldn't feel like your pushing the paint on the car. That will leave a heavy look.
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