ppg omni acrylic enamel single stage

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2004 7:27 pm
i heard that u can use clear coat with this...what is a good one to use?i originally thought a single stage paint job would be easier when i purchased this paint ,but have since read its actually easier for a base and clear...so if i can use a clear coat that would be great.any suggestions on which one to use and the cost.its for a vw bug ,also is one gallon of paint enough to paint my bug inside out including trunk?thanx for any help guys.



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 12:43 pm
anyone know?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 6:11 pm
if you havent bought the paint yet, just get PPG OMNI MBC base coat, and some PPG OMNI clear coat.

if you already bought the paint and it's not a custom blend, you might be able to get the paint shop to exchange the single stage stuff for the BC/CC stuff.

if you can't return the paint, you won't need to clear over the single stage, unless it's a metallic, then you might want to clear over it because then if something gets messed up you'll have some clear to sand and polish out any defects (dirt nibs, runs or orange peel)

on single stage metallics, the metalflakes settle a bit during drying, so you end up with a very thin "micro-clear coat", and if you sand to correct defects, you'll blow through that superthin layer of clear in seconds, and start damaging the metalflakes, it'll look very blotchy, and it can't be fixed except by re-shooting the entire piece. this isn't a concern with single stage solid colors as they sand and polish very well.

to clear over a single stage, go back to the paint shop where you got the paint originally, and have them mix you up some of the exact same single stage paint, except no toners, or metallic, so all you get is the clear single stage base, drying agents, and solvent.

use that JUST like the single stage paint (keeping in mind that it has much less solids, so you'll need to adjust the gun differently) and mix it up and shoot it as soon as the last coat of the colored single stage flashes (within 20 minutes MAXIMUM), shoot 2 good thick coats of the single stage "clear", and let cure. (keep in mind that most clear single stage bases are NOT perfectly clear, so keep it to a minimum, or you'll yellow the finished work, this will be especially noticible on light colors)

wait about TWO DAYS to correct any defects (single stage paints take a little longer to reach sanding hardness if you dont short bake them after shooting)

you can use a typical polyurethane clear over a single stage, but the single stage needs to be FULLY cured (30 days), and then LIGHTLY scuffed with a grey scotch pad before shooting.
adhesion with this method WILL NOT BE VERY GOOD, and you'll get some splitting, bubbing and peeling after 5 or so years in the sun.
"I believe the state of arkansas flag colors should be,...................PRIMER"

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 8:21 pm
It is extremely difficult to make helpful suggestions when pieces of the puzzle are missing. I will assume you are referencing OMNI MTK Single stage because they do have more then one? Will assume it is a solid color? As has been asked do you already have the SS?

Depending on Type and Color might want to consider a CLEAR MIX with MTK Single stage on the last coat. MC161 Clear works real well with OMNI MTK Single stage if mixed 50/50 for the last coat. They both use the same hardner and are mixed seperately THEN combined to final spray on last coat. This works exceptionally well with Red or Black.

This method is in the OMNI MTK Product Sheet:

http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/ob009.pdf

Metallics and Pearls are best if done with BC/CC. If you go with MBC make sure you have a sealer coat on or at least all the primer is one color to get best hiding and coverage.

Good Luck,

Don



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 11:21 pm
thanks for your replys ...i already have the omni single stage paint its called( mae )acrylic enamel ...it is also a solid color non-metallic its a stock vw L-11 pastel green, i had heard that u can use a clear coat with it.i cant exchange it cause it was mail order...i will just use it without the clear coat and see how it holds up ....hopefully i dont make to many mistakes when shooting it, i heard its harder to repair single stage versus b/c.thanx again for the help and this great website forum.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 12:46 am
I was afraid of that. :(

MAE is about the same cost as the MTK but feel the MTK URETHANE SS is a MUCHO Better product for the money. The Clear Mix as suggested works rather well with the MTK. It is not recommended with the MAE.

I hope you got the MAE with the Hardner?

BEFORE you use that OMNI MAE make sure you get the PRoduct sheets.

MAE without hardner:
http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/ob17.pdf

MAE with hardner:
http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/ob16.pdf

The Hardners will keep the MAE open longer so that is cures out faster while linking. The Hardners are definitely recommended but beware they contain ISOCYANATES. To keep from rehashing what has already been stated about the ISOS look through older post on this forum for Mask - breathing protection and such.

Good Luck.

Don

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