Lizard Skin VS Dynamat for sound proofing

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 12:41 am
Has anyone used Lizard Skin? In theory, it makes more sense than a mat. But I don't think I have ever seen it on a project car on TV, or talked to any one who has used it. I would think it would be especially good on the inside of a roof. Anyone?? Thanks.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:07 am
:goodpost: i would allso like to here from people that have used these materials .i have an old sports car that i'm restoring and it needs the inside done. it has a lot of non flat areas that need to be covered. :)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:10 am
I've never used Lizard Skin, but I use this product instead of Dynamat http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326-PS ... and%2Bseal. I then use aluminum duct tape to tape all the seams.http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... EBEPMCMAk#



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:46 am
We did the same (Lowe's) on a loud Mustang and it seems to be working nicely. When you close the door, it sounds solid.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 4:33 pm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/50-Ft-Fa ... ccessories
IS this the thing that you dont think that's any good .we use sound deadening mats ,but they only come in 24inches by 12 inches.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:07 pm
the one thing about the lizard skin i wonder about is can you get it off easy. like my car there are lines that run the lingth of the tunnel. what if repairs are needed can this suff be removed? i've seen people put bed liner in their cars i can't imagine getting that stuff off . i'm thinking of going with mats and use a heat gun to form it :)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 12:48 pm
I'm using Lizard Skin inside the cab of a '64 F100 project. The truck is still apart but you can definitely notice a major difference in how solid it makes the metal sound when you knock on it. I used both the Heat Shield and Sound Deadener. I sanded the interior with 180, epoxy-primed and then sprayed it with the Lizard Skin. It is water-based so I wanted a good foundation of epoxy underneath it. Easy to spray, easy to clean-up.

If it needs removing after cured, also easy to do. I would cut an outline with a razor blade and then you can easily scrape away what you need to. But left as-is, it's durable and strong. You can also topcoat it (according to mfg.)

I also have some of the Dynamat Extreme but haven't used it yet since I used the Lizard Skin instead.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 2:05 pm
Is there a cheaper alternative to lizardskin? It is intriguing but I don't think it is worth that much (150 dollars for 50 square feet seems a bit excessive.)



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 2:51 pm
good to here caspertruck, i've allso thought about using dyna mat on all the flat areas then the lizerdskin on all the curved areas. but i just can't make up my mind. i do need to get going on this project, its the wifes car and shes getting a little CRANKY about it. that means no nuthin you know what i'm saying, the only thing is she can't cut me off cause she don't now were im geting it at. :rotfl:
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 4:05 am
You actually only need 25% coverage to be effective.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld
(scroll down to the bottom)

The liquid products are great because you don't have to worry about them coming loose and drooping down. A quality mat/foil type deadener should stay glued, but on a black roof in the heat, who knows long term. Right now I'm testing out some E-Dead 45 that is only $1/sq foot on Amazon. I haven't had it installed for more than 4 months, so I can't say how it will fare through the summer yet. Dynamat Extreme is a better product than E-dead however.
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