Body filler over lead

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 9:27 am
The lead on my 67 looked ok, but i messed it up sanding the car, so I put platinum plus overtop of it. No problems now for months, except, it's never been out in the sun. :D



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 7:29 am
I spoke with a shop who does lead work. They found that the only thing that's works over lead is a coat of metal to metal. I tried it and it works. I would like to know what the problem was in the first place. Have cleaned the lead with baking soda and water several times. Also have used a commercial flux cleaner a mixture of alcohol ammonia and water. Have taken down cleaned the same area and painted it three times and still problems.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 8:31 am
The problem with lead after it's removed is that the metal underneath is still tinned, and the tinning is almost
impossible to remove. There'll always be flux residue left that's now a part of the metal. Lead is soft, it's greasy,
and there's absolutely no reason to use it anymore because the modern body fillers are so much better.
Lead is actually a lubricant, as in un-clad bullets and the old gasoline formulations; that's why it's very hard
to paint over.

You've found the best solution with using a metal based filler spread on top of 80 grit scratches.
A skim coat of Metal2Metal or AllMetal with epoxy primer on top...
"If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 9:39 pm
When was the last time u saw any plastic body filler last 40 50 year's I believe tha is point and case
It's time to kick **** and chew bubble gum... and I'm all outta gum.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 10:40 pm
JohnnyK wrote:In my quest to figure out what to do by reading, ODG, this has not inspired confidence?? viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13848&start=0

More confused now..



could be why hes painting shipping containers now.

ALWAYS and NEVER!! :knockout:



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 5:40 pm
NightTrain wrote:The problem with lead after it's removed is that the metal underneath is still tinned, and the tinning is almost
impossible to remove. There'll always be flux residue left that's now a part of the metal. Lead is soft, it's greasy,
and there's absolutely no reason to use it anymore because the modern body fillers are so much better.
Lead is actually a lubricant, as in un-clad bullets and the old gasoline formulations; that's why it's very hard
to paint over.

You've found the best solution with using a metal based filler spread on top of 80 grit scratches.
A skim coat of Metal2Metal or AllMetal with epoxy primer on top...


I spoke with a shop that does restorations and does lead work. They said Metal to Metal is the only thing that will work over lead. I tried it and no more problems. I would sure like to know why I had problems in the first place. I cleaned several times and still had problems.Years ago I think the only thing they put over lead was lacquer primer surface.
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