Well, this is my first attempt at body work.

Here is what I started with. Dont know if you can see in the picture, but there is some serious bondo. I would soon find out that it was put on very thick right over the paint with not prep. Also covered were some holes that were drilled to use a slide hammer.


After about half the bondo was removed



Removed all the bondo and found the holes.



Was able to work the metal back pretty good.





Light skim of Evercoat zgrip. Still have a little sanding but it looks pretty good.



After I get it all sounded out with 220, I am gonna spray it with epoxy, then 2k, block, 2k, block. Do I need a sealer before base coat?

Any and all suggestions and comments are greatly appreciated.

Hey you do pretty good work! wanna come over and help on my Plymouth????

1st Beers on me

Nice job. I've seen pro work that wasn't any better.
Those are unusual wheels for a Vdub. Are they American Racing?
Unilites?

Thanks. Just wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing something.

I have since replaced the wheels with OG wheels. No more rubbing and I think better looking. They were American Racing and are a knock off of the Empi 5 Spokes.

So from where I am now, the next steps would be: Please correct me if Im incorrect!!!!

Epoxy primer
Wax/degreaser
Tack cloth
2k primer (2 coats)
guide coat
Block sand (120 grit)
wax/degreaser
Tack cloth
Poly filler if needed
2k primer (2 coats)
guide coat
Block sand (220 grit)
wax/degreaser
Tack cloth
primer sealer (can this be sanded?)
Wash with soap and water
base coat

Couple more questions

If doing a BC/CC, can you/do you wet sand the BC before laying on the CC?
What order do you paint a bus? I was under the assumption that you have to cover the entire panel that you are painting. Do you walk the whole length of the bus? Do you include the rear corners with the sides?

Thanks again

Vdubber wrote:Thanks. Just wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing something.

I have since replaced the wheels with OG wheels. No more rubbing and I think better looking. They were American Racing and are a knock off of the Empi 5 Spokes.

So from where I am now, the next steps would be: Please correct me if Im incorrect!!!!

Epoxy primer
Wax/degreaser
Tack cloth
2k primer (2 coats)
guide coat
Block sand (120 grit)
wax/degreaser
Tack cloth
Poly filler if needed
2k primer (2 coats)
guide coat
Block sand (220 grit)
wax/degreaser
Tack cloth
primer sealer (can this be sanded?)
Wash with soap and water
base coat

Couple more questions

If doing a BC/CC, can you/do you wet sand the BC before laying on the CC?
What order do you paint a bus? I was under the assumption that you have to cover the entire panel that you are painting. Do you walk the whole length of the bus? Do you include the rear corners with the sides?

Thanks again

Thats alot of sanding ha ha.

but if its your personal ride dont you want to leave it in 320? keep it a little finer for more shine? just my newb thought.

I dont think you have to wet sand before clear. its also dangerous as its easy to cut through with wet sand.

And i was always told start from top to bottom and do it in sections. First year newb ftw? ha ha

ok i'm going to try and hit some of these
1- i would wipe it down with wax and grease remover before the epoxy, its just good insurance. now when you use the w/g remover wipe it on and wipe it off, then let it dry for at least 30 min.. also if there are any places that it can get under blow those areas with an air hose. no real need to tack rag it but you can if you want.

2- after you shoot you epoxy you can let it dry, i usualy let it dry to where my finger won't stick to it. this may take several hours depending on temps you need to be 55-60 or more. anyway you can just shoot the 2k primer right over it wet to wet .

3- you shoud guide coat then i use 180 for my first bocking. do any repairs needed, then blow it off. then shoot more 2k you shouldn't need to wipe it down but you can if you want. just make sure you get it clean wipe on wipe off

4- block with 400 wet with a guide coat this is going to take some time to get the 180 grit profile sanded out

5- now from here you can seal or what ever but it depends on your color and paint that your going to use
and no you don't sand the base coat before you clear it

Thanks for all your help and suggestions. I really appreciate it.

I was thinking I would just paint the repaired areas and cruise it this summer and do the complete paint this fall.

How would I "blend" the new paint to the old. I was thinking that I could spray the new paint past the repair into the old paint, then wet sand and "blend" the two. This of course is based on no experience what so ever.

Thanks

i would just epoxy prim the repair areas and drive it

badsix wrote:i would just epoxy prim the repair areas and drive it

I was thinking the same thing, but really would like the bus to be generally the same color.

Little more progress. I was a little nervous to do my first patch repair, so I started small. I have these small holes in the exact same spot on both sides of the bus. Dont know if something used to be bolted on or what. I tried welding them up on the passengers side. Turned out ok, but the patch looks like nothing was ever there!





Cut out the hole and sanded around the edges for a good welding surface.


Before fitting the new patch, I sprayed the back of the patch and the inside of the window frame with weld through primer.





Welded it up with short bursts and cooled each weld with air.




Not much clean up. Used my air grinder with a sanding pad and cleaned up the welds.




I have some more holes like this to fill and then a couple small panel repairs.

Did it look like the welds could have been hotter? I didn't want to blow through. I have a Millermatic 180, using .023" wire, about 25cfm gas (75%/25%), heat on 2.5 and speed on 30.

I was actually thinking maybe the gap could have been a little bigger to let the weld sit in the gap.

Any suggestions? Comments?

Overall I am pretty happy how it went.