First try at Body work. Comments? Suggestions?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 5:13 pm
Vdubber wrote:Timbo, thank you very much for your advice. I think that the polyester primer would work great on this. As you can tell, the bus has huge flat panels. I was wondering how long of a sanding block I need to do it right? As of now I have a 12 inch board.

Also I was wondering about my painting "environment". I know this has been covered about a million times, but most are concerning the actual application of paint. I plan on priming the bus in my garage. I have access to a paint booth for the paint.
My question is, what do I need to do to the garage before priming?

Thanks again for the advice!!!


Hi I saw this and would like to give my opinion on this if that's ok.
Polyester primer is a high build product that is true. BUT, polyester primer is not very durable.
I understand why people want to use it, but I would recommend a good barrier coat like a epoxy primer. Nothing is as durable as a epoxy number 1. If you didn't want to use epoxy I would use a high build, none shrinking easy to sand DTM primer. Anything that requires a very small amount of liquid hardener (polyester needs only a few drops) is not as durable as a ISO cured product. Chemically speaking polyester primer is 1 step above lacquer primer.
I own a paint manufacture, I'm speaking with the actual chemical knowledge of the actual chemical makeup of polyester.just trying to help. :)
Hope it helps, if you have any other questions please let me know.

Tammy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 10:08 pm
I definitely plan on using epoxy. I had planned on using 2k high build primer before hearing from Timbo. I will definitely do some research before application.

I feel like I'm getting good results with my filler application and block sanding it smooth. I think the 2k high build would build enough to block sand. Obviously through a couple applications and repeated sanding.

Correct me if I'm wrong.. The polyester primer gives added build (greater than the 2k). It is also applied over epoxy primer in a similar manner.

What do you guys think about priming in the garage? With primer, do I need to set up temp walls? Am I going to get overspray everywhere as with paint?

How about the block sanding long board? How big should use?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 10:29 pm
I stopped worrying about overspray way back. Your call. To each his own.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 12:26 am
Vdubber wrote:I definitely plan on using epoxy. I had planned on using 2k high build primer before hearing from Timbo. I will definitely do some research before application.

I feel like I'm getting good results with my filler application and block sanding it smooth. I think the 2k high build would build enough to block sand. Obviously through a couple applications and repeated sanding.

Correct me if I'm wrong.. The polyester primer gives added build (greater than the 2k). It is also applied over epoxy primer in a similar manner.

What do you guys think about priming in the garage? With primer, do I need to set up temp walls? Am I going to get overspray everywhere as with paint?

How about the block sanding long board? How big should use?


Really it depends on the brand of the 2k primer. Some brands of
2k primer do not build well. Some do. Ours for instance has a true very high build.
I have guys use it and never use a polyester ever. I would never even make it because I think it's personally inferior.
I always tells guys you are better to use any brand of high build and build your layers with a ISO cured primer than to use a polyester primer. Guys like polyester because it gives a quick artificial build. Acheived quicked and easy. But I'm going based on what is better. Your better off using a good DTM on the metal or even better a epoxy like I said before. All primers are not created equal. Of course I'm biased and think my primer rocks, but that because it is a true high build and not not shrink. Lol

Anyways over spray just come with the territory. Creating a make shift booth does help. Anything catalyzed wil cause worse over spray verses like a basecoat for instance which drys ASAP.so primer will cause it as bad as epoxy, single stage enamels etc.

Block sanding can be done with anything really. The longer the board the more area covered. Block sanding with long boards works best on fenders, or any large area. For short areas you can use a 3m foam blocking pad.
If you ever need tech help feel free to call. I help people
Even if it not my product. I come across alot of misinformation in this field and really like to offer advice honestly, take it or leave it! Lol
800-678-1533
Thanks
Tammy
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“Those who surrender freedom for security will not have, nor do they deserve, either one.”

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 12:56 am
Polyester primer is the same basic product as body filler. If you treat it as such, it will perform the same way as filler. Sandwich it between layers of epoxy or urethane primer and it is protected the same as body filler.
I used some Evercoat Featherfil G2 on the long wall of my bus to help with blocking in the final stages. I sprayed 2 coats and started blocking with P180 on a 24 inch Dura-block and switched to my usual blocks. I use a 11" Dura-block or traditional hard block with handle on almost everything.

Most urethane primers have about half the build of poly primer. Urethane primer will give you plenty of build in about 80% of final sanding stages before paint. It's the panels with extensive filler work that can benefit from poly primer. You end up sanding most of it off anyway.

Yes to the overspray concern. I have a fair amount of overspray dust on all surfaces, and most tools. Anything you forget to put away WILL get covered in a nice layer of fine overspray dust... Eventually it will wear off most tools, but cleaning plastic is almost impossible. ;) I drape plastic sheeting from the walls when I'm shooting a lot of material.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 11:23 pm
A little more work done on the cargo door.

Inner support primed

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Verified fitment. Very happy with how it fits.

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Welded up. I feel like my welds are getting better.

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After grinding and some hammer and dolly work. STOKED!! Still have a little welding to do, but the hard stuff is done.

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A little more hammer work left but I am pretty happy on how it came out.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 12:44 pm
Nice job on your weld seams! You did well by priming the backside of the panels, etc. Your bus will thank you 40 years down the road. ;)

If you want to weld up that little corner near the lip on the cargo door....Use a die grinder to shape the weld roughly. Then you can switch over to a 1 or 2" Rol-Loc type disk. 3M and several companies make copies with the mandrel for a die grinder or drill (welding supply store). They work well for smoothing hard to reach areas. I also have some carbide tipped rotary files and rasps that mount in a die grinder for tough weld areas.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 7:39 pm
50 discs and the mandrel. 18 bucks. Lasts a good while. Local tool shed. Look around. :allgood:
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 8:32 am
I don't have that luxury living on end of the earth (coast). ;) The nearest Harbor Freight or discount tool house is over 60 miles away.

The good part about using 3M, Norton or other QUALITY sanding supplies is buying 3 - 5 disks and having them last an entire job. ;)
I might pay 50 cents each disk (locally), but I find they last at least 3 times longer than the cheap sanding supplies. I buy bulk lots of supplies online most of the time, when I'm not in an emergency.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 10:12 pm
I've been working on the bus on and off. Here is some pics of the front cargo door. It had some rust issues. Not as much as the rear door.

Here is the before pics

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Here is the inner support/ frame removed. As I expected, the rust was worse than I thought. I still could have used the outer skin, but I had the metal.

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New inner support fitted.

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Sheet metal removed and outer skin in place. I ended up laying the outer skin over the door and clamping it down and cutting both pieces as one to get the perfect cut. It ended up working very well.

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Both pieces fitted up together. Pretty happy with the results. I have just a couple minor adjustments to do to the new sheet metal before welding and finishing. As you can see in the first pic below, the outer skin is a little "wide" and there is a little gap between the skin and the outer support.

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