looks like you have the right activator and reducer i would look at my gun settings and fluid tip and or air pres.

yup, i'm going to try some of timbo's suggestions. the fluid tip is definitely a little small. i'm going to try reducing my pressure at the gun and open up the fluid knob some more and see where that gets me.

what about the parts i haven't sanded yet? should i block them with some 220 before i put any more primer on them?

Yes, you do not want an extreme amount of build on there or it will be prone to chipping.

cool... thanks... y'all are thee BEST!!! i can't put into words how much i appreciate the knowledge, information and help that's available here...

A little question along the same lines.. If I'd like to avoid using a rattle can guide coat (or buying a dry guide coat), I've heard of people tinting their final primer spray with base coat to give it a darker hue.. But, I suppose this wouldn't be a good idea with a metallic base coat?

Remember your are only spraying a very light mist when applying a guide coat. You only need enough contrast so as to see when ALL the guide coat has been removed. If you are only doing one car then buying Dry Guide Coat is overkill. 1 can of spray on guide coat would be more than enough for a complete.

Its not a good idea to tint using your base coats, no matter if its metallic or not. I've gotten by with using a LITTLE black base before in my primers and clears, but I'm talking about less than 1oz. Dies and toners are OK, usually.

I just spray a very light coat of black base coat, thinned with reducer only (quick flashing) or use black spray can primer. If you spray it light enough (1 - 2 feet away and move quickly), it never gums up the paper. You only need enough to see the shade change, you don't actually want to see drops of guide coat on the panel.

bringing this one back from the dead being that i already had some info in here...

my project got put on the back burner for a while and i'm FINALLY getting back to it. the good news is, i've got the gun dialed in and my primer is laying down nice and smooth. the dry problems i was having was definitely gun settings and i was spraying WAY too far away from the work. my spraying technique is definitely headed in the right direction and i'm very happy with the results of my last attempt. i cut my pressure at the gun down to 20psi with the trigger pulled, the fluid tip wide open, full fan and i opened the air screw at the bottom of the handle on the gun all the way. i stumbled onto a post in a thread where chris recommended opening that air screw all the way and then adjust the pressure at the gun with the regulator. previously i probably only had it open about half way and i THINK that was a big part of the problems i was having. thanks for that post chris, i really appreciate it. maybe you can add that suggestion to the gun set up section on the home page for the rest of us noobs...

sorry for rambling on there... i've got a few more questions...

i only had time to get one coat of primer on tonight. i don't see anything in the tech sheets for the maximum time frame between coats. what do i need to do to the primer i already applied (if anything) before i put some more coats on? is there a maximum time window before i have to sand again? the primer i'm using is the omni MP282 sv high build 2k primer surfacer mixed at 4:1:1.

i ended up with a few runs in one of the pieces i'm working on, so i'm guessing it's best to sand those runs out before i go any further. is that right?

thanks,

tom

I would continue priming even if i get a run or two. just let it flash good 10-15 minutes if the right temp reducer is used. then proceed.

ok, thanks. i was tempted to keep going but i was worried about making it worse. the sun was going down and the temps were dropping so i decided to just pack it in for the night. being that i stopped, should i go ahead and hit the runs before i put my next coats on? they're not TOO bad and i guess i can try to work around them with the next coat or two to try and even everything out. i've got a feeling i won't even see them after two more coats. i guess i just answered my own question about sanding them before i put any more on...

what about the re coat window? i know i want to wait 10-15min. between coats but what is the longest i can go between coats without sanding?