You'd have to check the tech sheet sheet for that..
As for the runs, I'd say it doesn't matter one way or another. You'll be sanding them out anyways, so.. If you feel the urge, take care of them now.. Might be better than having a thick blob of uncured primer.. That being said, I have a few runs in my 2k (We ARE talking urethane 2k high build, right? Can't remember the rest of this thread now.. haha), and I'm just sanding them out as I block sand the car.
Block sand after which coat of primer?
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you will have to scuff it all with 180-220 and block out the runs too. on that primer prob 30 minutes tops recoat window with the same product. I wouldn't want to go over 20-30 to be honest. Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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Settled In
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Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:12 am |
****... i was afraid you were gonna say that... oh well... i'm getting plenty of sanding practice... now i know why you said you'd continue priming. that's what i'll do next time. thanks again for all the help...
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hang in there bud
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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Good job on stopping and packing up for the night when the temperature drops. I tend to paint into the wee hours of the night and it can cause problems with blushing, or in extreme cases water bubbles trapped under the surface. Condensation forms easily on metal when the temp drops more than about 15 degrees F.
When in doubt, muster on and sand out your mistakes. As long as you have material, you have a 2nd or 3rd chance. |
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What product is this? 20-30 minutes max recoat time?!
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most 2K urethane primers is the max unless they are lightening fast........
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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