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Single Stage Urethane - Limco

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 3:51 am
Hey guys, I haven't really been able to find anything on it.

A few months ago I went to the paint shop and asked for a gallon of black single stage urethane paint. They gave me LIMCO 3 quick mix and activator for a grand total of $70 (if I remember right).

I painted my hood, however, I had solvent pop or fisheyes. So I ended up needing to sand it down. But here's my concern. After a few weeks (granted it wasn't very warm out, wanting to say 50-60 tops) I could swipe my finger across and see what I assume were scratches.

Is this paint really that soft that it can scratch that easy? I know black shows scratches and stuff worse than other colors, but I'm really concerned that I'll paint the car and never be able to get it to look good by my standards. Should I just junk this paint (use it on trailer and other projects) and get a higher quality paint? Can someone tell me about their experience with this paint?

I'm wondering if maybe I should go BC/CC instead. I was under the impression single stage has a deeper look to it ( want the deepest, darkest, wettest look ) If I ditch it for BC/CC, is the Refinish Solutions BC any good? Or maybe better off using Matrix or Genstar? I'm not sure what else the local place sells. Also, if I do go BC/CC what's the difference between medium solids and high solids clear?

And on a side note, I did my first BC/CC job and a motorcycle tank for a friend. I laid down one color, taped a design, laid down another color. Pulled tape off and shot some candy apple red over it then cleared it. However, a little after I was done shooting the clear, I noticed a bunch of tiny bubbles in it. I was using a medium activator and it was about 85ish. I know that's too fast for the temperature, but it's some Refinish Solutions clear that I got about 3 years ago and never opened. Was the activator being to fast to blame?

Thanks for any replies.

Local places website http://www.66autocolor.com/default.asp however, they sell more than they list on there. For example, they sell Wanda (bases for sure) and obviously, Limco. Not sure what else.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:48 pm
I know there's a lot to read there, but has no one used limco 3?


Also, can an activator that is too fast for the temperature cause bubbles in the clear?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:31 am
i havn't used the limco-3 but some s/s will take quite some time to cure hard, may be a week or longer. i have used limco clear and it seemed to stay soft for a long time and never did get real hard like other clears i've used. i use to use dupont 7800 clear and after about a 6-7 days it got so hard a cat could'nt scrach it :rotfl: and yes the fast activator in high temps could promote sovent pop. but you've got other things working aginst you here to, age of your materials for one. it could be a number of things, were not even sure its sovent pop. got pictures :)
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 2:07 pm
It looked great right after I sprayed it. I let the base sit for about an hour before clearing. The bubbles showed up while it was drying. Here's the set picture I could get. Its my first bc/cc job so I'm still learning.

Image
they look like tiny air bubbles or something.

Image
not a very good picture.

Image
right after if was sprayed.



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 2:11 pm
Isn't that what solvent pop is? Uncured basecoat or primer flashing off underneath the clear?



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 1:55 pm
caspertruck wrote:Isn't that what solvent pop is? Uncured basecoat or primer flashing off underneath the clear?


The primer had about 24 hours with temperatures of 80 and above. Basecoat had an hour to flash at 90 degrees. However, there was about 6 coats of base and 2 or 3 candy coats. I'm guessing maybe an hour wasn't enough?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:51 pm
what causes solvent pop is putting your coats on to heavy with out enough flash time in between, and to fast of reducer or activator. on your base an hour is plenty if you had good flash times between all those coats :)
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 2:41 pm
I let the base flash about ten mins each coat and I was using a medium reducer in 85 degree weather. This was just a free job for a friend who's tank was scratched bad and he fine with the results though. So I'm guessing it wasn't the base's fault and probably the fact I used a medium clear coat activator. It's all I had and the shops 45 mins away.

This was really just a learning experience and practice for me. Thanks for the replies on the bubbles. Too bad no knows about limco. I think I'll probably just use it because I made the mistake of not using etch or epoxy under my 2k and I have so much work into. I guess if needed in a few years I'll repaint it with better paint. Thanks again



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 10:52 am
I have only use the bc from limco is cheap on price but for the colors I have used it on worked for me, not bad at all compare to other cheap brands I have used, and base on my experience those tiny bubbles on your clear might be due to your activator being too old same thing happened to me once when I was using a fast activator on like 85 degrees tempeture it looked good when I was done but after a while those little bubbles staring to show up, what is causing this is the fumes being trap underneath the last coat of clear



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:21 am
If its single stage,why the use of clearcoat??
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