OK let's hear your best tips and your favorite tricks
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Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm Location: (account suspended) Country: USA |
this is very true, but on plastic parts that have paint on them, like fox body mustang cowls, or trim pieces. instead of sanding them and risking damage, make a bath of cheap brake fluid and soak the part. will remove all the paint and not harm the plastic at all. give it time, it will peel the paint just like paint remover for metal but will not melt it and no worry about sanding gouges or damage. works very good.
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!
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always pour paint out of your gun and back into your can of paint in between coats of pearl or met. base. these are polished rocks, and will settle to the bottom, so stirring the paint inbetween coats will help keep the color consitant.
base will cover faster and in less coats as long as you allow to flash properly. if possible, budget wise, try to use the same line of products from start to finish, it will casue less problem as far as adhession goes, but not always the case, and in like epoxy primers. get a good quality psi regulator for the gun, always measure psi at the gun, if you don't have one, and must do so at the wall, add at least 10 psi to it. exp. clear needs 35 psi to spray, you set at the wall, most likey you'll have 25 psi at the gun, you lose x amount of air for every x amount of hose, when measureing at the wall. plus measureing at the gun will allow you to adjust for any lost or add psi while your painting. practice makes perfect, get some junk parts along with some pratice paint. Captian OBVIOUS.
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I found out the hard way that you MUST make sure that the vent on top of the cover on a HVLP gun is clean. I checked it before starting, but there was a little chunk stuck in there that I missed. Scratching my head as a NOOB. The found out I was starving the gun for paint!!!
I'll never make that mistake again!!! But like they say, there is no replacement for experience!!!! |
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Fully Engaged
Posts: 313
Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:00 am Country: Greece |
lol and don't try to clean the nozzle with your finger while you pull the trigger and you have the cap open .. it might kick back and make a mess out of you. (ofcourse this only happens when certain criteria exist)
Troubleshooting guide:
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/~/med ... e/tsg.ashx |
Settled In
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 3:16 am Country: Canada |
Someone was asking about masking off the doors without leaving a hard line well look here at this dandy, you can also get cheaper versions at paint suppliers cheaper;
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/ez-edger-p-17789.aspx
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Non-Lurker
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:00 pm Country: USA |
My favorite way to get paint and primer out of the can is with a metal soup ladle, this also works good for mixing your product. 4 to 1 mix, 4 ladles of this and one ladle of that. I have been using this for thirty years or so. Bondo mixing board has been the lid for 1 gallon icecream container. Cheap if you don't count the cost of the icecream, Im going to eat that anyhow.
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It's also pretty easy to learn how to do that without using that gizmo If all else fails, get a bigger hammer.
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Pyrex measuring cups/bowls for mixing small amounts of paints. Easy to clean with lacquer thinner or acetone.
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Non-Lurker
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 10:23 pm Country: USA |
So, why throw away the strainer????? Obviously if you have used a paper strainer, there will be no need for it? |
After so many problems when I started shooting with gravity guns years ago I have learned it is a waste of my time shooting solvent paint using those cup filters. I like the paper strainers and have never had another issue with flow or metallic distribution because it (cup filter) is no longer being used. You are best off tossing the things IMO. Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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