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General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 7:09 am
timbo wrote:When you spray the edges it lessens the chance of dry spray on your large area of the panel.
If i am spraying a hood on the work stand I spray the edges first then proceed.

And spraying the edges first allows the overspray, close to the edges, to flow out better. Just makes sense to do your final touches of the panel, on the part most visible.
Last edited by chevman on Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:13 am, edited 1 time in total.



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:09 am
If you use an epoxy on your bare metal panels first and fill over it, then you can apply more epoxy when you think it is done. And if it is ********** epoxy, http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing%20Info.htm
it will be glossy enough that you can see how straight it is before applying your primer surfacer. Then if you need to, you can just apply more filler, and keep sanding. Try to apply the filler over epoxy in the first 48 hours. Otherwise check the tech sheet. Some epoxies need to be recoated with more epoxy if they get out of the recoat window.

When block sanding primer surfacer use the longest block you can, with as little pressure as possible. On the older 2 door cars with large 1/4 panels, you could use 18"-24" block depending on how big the panel is. Dura blocks are fine, but you can go to a hobby store and get Balsa wood, to make any size block you want, and it will conform to the metal with less downward pressure. I glue a couple 4 inch long pieces on the ends, to use as handles. When sanding the hood, the slightest downward pressure will push the hood down and keep you from sanding it straight.

Don't sand one area at a time. Use long strokes in one 45 degree direction all across the panel, then come back across the panel with the block in the other 45 degree angle \\\\\\\\\\\\\\ //////////////

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 9:48 am
Most dirt and dust getting into the paint comes from: The PAINTER not the floor.
Get a good painter's suit, wear a painter's sock, put some gloves on (I like Raven) and wear a respirator.
After getting suited up spray yourself off (near the exhaust fans or outside the booth) with an air hose to remove any loose dust on your suit. Use an old tac cloth and wipe the first 10' or so of your air hose down.
Use common sense when working around fresh paint. Waiting for paint to flash is not the time to try organizing your paint mixing area.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 1:58 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Most dirt and dust getting into the paint comes from: The PAINTER not the floor.
Get a good painter's suit, wear a painter's sock, put some gloves on (I like Raven) and wear a respirator.
After getting suited up spray yourself off (near the exhaust fans or outside the booth) with an air hose to remove any loose dust on your suit. Use an old tac cloth and wipe the first 10' or so of your air hose down.
Use common sense when working around fresh paint. Waiting for paint to flash is not the time to try organizing your paint mixing area.


:goodpost: :goodpost:
Go outside waiting to flash and don't get in a rush!
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:53 am
If you think about the general way of bumping sheet metal, then you can use your imagination on many kinds of dents. In the case of a large dent, the usual process is to ruff out the dent by applying moderate to heavy force on the lowest part of the dent or crease, after that then use a hammer and dolly to massage the highs and lows back into shape. You might be able to get access in the trunk (if its behind the wheel) or remove the seat and side panel (if its in front of the wheel)
In this video you can see that he spreads the force out over a larger area to ruff out the crease by pulling, thereby getting minimun stretching or distortion from the blows.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nGalwR8 ... re=related

But smaller repairs are done like you may have seen on stainless steel repairs. And that is working around and closing in on the major part of the dent. As you work the outer edges of the dent up, it slowly raises the center of the dent as you close in on it, and buy the time you get to the center there is quite often not much of it left.
Here is an example of the coming around the mountain approach, and there are many more videos here. I like the dentless repair videos because they show the principles of dent removal. Anyone using a lot of bondo, could just as easily use a lot less.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghb0nez4 ... re=related

In some cases you might fashion some type of long punch with a blunt end to knock the dents down.
To control the point of impact it might take two people---one on each end of the long punch. Sometimes you can make a zig zag in your homade tool to get it out through the access hole, in order to strike it with a hammer.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:12 am
Tips on stretching welds/welding thin sheet metal:

When MIG, TIG or Gas welding, start your shrinking with hammer and dolly Immediately after you have completed a tack. If you get to the weld while it is still orange or cherry, you will have a lot easier time stretching the soft weld.

MIG and TIG welds are especially hard (rockwell hardness) because they cool quickly and the heat is focused in a small area on the weld. This makes for a very shrunken weld.
A gas weld does not have this problem and is sometimes preferred on areas where you have great access to the weld for shrinking. Repairs with very little to no filler are possible with this method.
Hammer and dollying the weld will forge the weld, aligning the molecules - creating a stronger joint. The welding anneals the panel (expands the molecules) and gives you time to align (work) them into the shape you want. Many metal workers talk about how metal can be compared to water, and thinking of it in this way makes panels beating much easier. :)

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 1:39 pm
**** HERE IS A TIP dont let your boss no how much you know ,other wise you will end up doing all the work for the same money as the prat that knows nothing.o YES NEVER fart in your paper overalls ,if you had a curry the night before.
fail to prepare ,prepare to fail.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 12:56 pm
Try to keep you masking tape in a warm place ,you will find it sticks much better.
fail to prepare ,prepare to fail.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 2:45 pm
Mainly for us newbies, been stated numerous times, helped me on several occasions, and IMHO, think it's worth repeating:
On more than one occasion, someone made a mistake, then tried to fix it, only to make things worse. If you run into a problem, the best thing to do is leave it alone, then come here and do a search for the best solution.
In most cases, you'll find you're not the only one with the same problem, it's been discussed before, and solutions are available. It's a lot faster than just asking the question and waiting for answers.
If you can't find it in a search, then ask the question.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 6:26 pm
Tip on getting a chunk of trash that falls into clear as you are spraying. tear off a small strip of 1-1/2" or 3/4" tape, make a u shape out of it where the sticky side would be facing the panel and gently dab onto the trash untill the adhesive of the tape picks up the trash. Easier than a trash pic or tooth pic...quicker also. I always have a roll of tape on the table in the booth. Even when wearing a suit and headsock, still always the possibility of an eyelash or piece of hair to fall right in the middle of the roof or hood!
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