Sata Jet, NR95 HVLP w/ 1.5 tip. --> ANY GOOD?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2004 8:00 pm
I saw one (in seemingly great shape) at the pawn shop for $100. It has a 1.5 tip.
I can probably get him down a little on price. What would one be worth?

Thanks



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2004 8:57 pm
That gun likely sold for over $400 new and is now about a generation old. I have read some very favorable reviews for it. The 1.5 tip is a good choice for high solids paint like metallics.



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 12:18 am
Love that gun. One of my favorites especcially with a 1.3 tip. very smooth and great atomization alittle slow though if your not used to HVLP you might think your starving for paint.



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 11:01 am
Thanks, guys.


Mike



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 11:29 am
That's a very good price. You can make your money back plus a good profit by selling it on Ebay if you don't like it. A little about SATA guns. The current model is the SATAjet 2000. So the 95 is about 9 years old. They use a lot of air 15 CFM @29 psi so be sure you have a big enough compressor.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 1:09 pm
grn92conv,

Humor me a bit as I ramble.

Given that NR95's 1.5mm tip size would walk away and order another gun. The NR95 is a discontinued gun and will probably be hard to get parts for and if they are found will probably be expensive more then you paid for the gun. AGAIN Think the 1.5mm is to big for doing bc/cc but you can try it. I HOPE YOU HAVE A DECENT COMPRESSOR to SUPPLY the REQUIRED CFM too??

The NR95 at one time(past tense) got rave reviews and then it more or less disappeared as not worthy compared to the newest replacement NR2000 when it came out. Call it SATA SPRAY PERFECT advertising HYPE or whatever. That is the Marketing and Sales people's JOB. I expect not much difference when the replacement for the NR2000 has been announced and main streamed for the 2000 being substandard in advertising. The NR2000 will be back shelfed then discontinued as is the tradition. SATA is about over due for the NR2000 replacement. Shall be interesting to see.

I'd look for another gun at one of these places because sometimes a bargain might end up costing you more.

http://www.spraygunworld.com/

http://www.spraygundepot.com/scripts/de ... otgate.bbx

http://www.everhartsales.com/

http://thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW209.html

http://www.autopaintersupply.com/Mercha ... y_Code=SGP

Incidently for anyone interested the New Sata Mini-Jet 4 is being advertised at Everhart's. Maybe the Mini-Jet 3 pricing will drop? Actually if you notice the 4's pricing merely went up which is typical for a brand new marketed product then it levels out afterwords. Then again given the present economy who knows?
http://www.everhartsales.com/Scripts/pr ... =453080531

Now didn't you mention something about having a FL3 in an older post? If so have you practiced with it for bc/cc? You are using bc/cc are you not? If you are merely interested in buying a name then go for the SATA NR95. I honestly think with a decent compressor and the 1.3mm tip setup that the FL3 will out spray the Sata NR95 1.5mm. Let us know what you decide and do for your own discovery. :)



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 1:35 pm
D71 wrote:Very informative post!!

My compressor is an Ingersoll Rand, single stage unit and puts out 18.1 CFM @ 90 psi (around 20cfm @ 40psi) in an 80 gallon tank. I hope it's enough. I bought it hoping to not upgrade.
I do have a FL3 with 1.8 and 1.5mm tips. If needed I'll order a 1.3 for clear, Should I?? My understanding (please correct me if wrong), is that with metallic base (like I'll be spraying), I should use a 1.4 or 1.5mm tip.

The reason for another gun is, from reading this board, I get the feeling the FL3 isn't a very good one.
This will be my first time spraying, I want everything as near to right as possible. I have a crap load of money tied up in my newest interest (painting).

Please steer me in the right direction.

Thanks!!!!!!

Mike


On Edit:
I'm from the mustang boards, moderating one. I see some of the rudest people posting on those sites imaginable. I just wanted to say I'm very impressed with this forum. Amazingly, people are willing to share knowledge without the attitude you would find on some other info boards.
Great site, you guys have here! Glad I stumbled onto it.
I hope to be a regular here.



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 11:37 pm
I can't speak for SATA but my dealer tells me he can still get every part for my 25-year-old Sharpe 75. Because spray guns (at least the good ones) tend to last a long time, maybe being moved down the food chain a bit as they age, parts are often available for a long time.
I have several generations of Sharpe guns and frankly, the 3 different HVLP ones are not hugely different. It is often worthwhile for a professional to buy the latest and best because it may give him a small edge in speed, ease of use, a shade better quality. It's a cost-benefit decision for him. For the part timer and hobbiest, it is a lot harder to justify being the leader of the pack. By careful buying of used guns, I have less than $100 in each one. I'm not in the SATA or Iwata club yet but I do have a Sharpe Platnium for my best gun.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 1:32 pm
Mike,

Can you point to a post where someone stated the FL3 is not a good gun? I'd like to see what and why they may have stated that info for their opinion about the FL3. Might be a misunderstanding or might be one of the few have seen post they didn't like the FL3? The internet is hard to communicate on sometimes and even still people are entitled to their different opinions.

I have a FL3 gun and think it is a good gun if it is feed enough air - cfm. My BIG air compressor is listed at ~17cfm@90psi with an 80 gallon tank size and the FL3 works well with it. The FL3 is an air hungry gun but can't stress this enough your setup will work with it for air delivery but other people with less of a compressor such as a 120 volt model need to consider other options ie: buy bigger compressor or get a more air friendly gun. For them the FL3 is not a good option because of the CFM requirements will result in runs and dry spray if the CFM is not up to par. It takes CFM to do the work with HVLP guns where as other paint guns such as compliant guns and conventional guns utilize air pressure for the paint delivery - atomizing. Some of the conventional guns use a lot of air too and is a function of the design.

I'd get the 1.3mm tip nozzle ~$25 from online and do some practicing to see what you think for that FL3 setup. Look at the links above because most of those places sell the nozzle tip which is the only part you need to change. Practice is the key word to learning the setup.

EXAMPLE:
http://www.everhartsales.com/Scripts/pr ... egory=1740

Normally recommend more then one gun for people that are intent on doing more then just one paint job ie: regular hobbyist. You have a decent compressor so imagine you intend to do more then one project? Anyway back on topic one gun dedicated for primer and one for top coats that's my rule. The reason is because the gun can become contaminated with primer if not cleaned well and shoot out some of those former shot materials during the top coating process. That plus primer is a bugger to keep the gun clean and the primers can be abrasive on the tips and nozzles. If you stick with just the FL3 make sure you clean the gun ASAP after using it after the different stages of your paint process. Don't get me wrong you can do it all with that one gun but again will have to keep the gun immaculate - something you need to do anyway. The FL3 gun baggies work - poor man's version of 3M PPS. :)

AGAIN if you expect to do good then will suggest you practice on a scrap panel - make it like a complete process. If you've ever played sports then might remember and know the value of practicing? I don't know of many professional sport players that didn't practice before the big game. Do/did you? Just REMEMBER Painting is the easy & fun part while the prep and body work to get there is the hard part. Don't get ahead of the game for the all important prep work and rush into painting or you will definitely be disappointed. Mistakes are going to happen that can almost be counted on the first time out. Again don't put the horse before the cart: don't get ready & prepared to paint before you have the OLD paint stripped, body work done, and primer on(remember to use the primer stages to practice). Those things obviously have to be completed first but yet some people don't consider it as an orderly progress and will start preparing for the paint stage before anywhere near ready.

NOW after reading your post I hope you bought everything(tools & equipment) with the intent of looking at it as an investment in the future for other projects and more so for a learning experience into a new hobby aspect - sideline? If so then relax because as time goes by and you gain more knowledge will probably be happy you made the investment. Don't get me wrong it is nasty & tiring work at times but the reward for being able to proclaim you done it all is second to none.

That plus if you have checked on getting a Professional to do the work for you especially on more then one project then necessity has probably driven your factor for the INVESTMENT in TOOLS. That was one of my motivational factors and has probably caused many DIY'ers to follow suit. Several friends from work have followed in step after paying other people to do the work for them and being less then satisifed. They are money behind for their initial investments. Think about it.

There is a down side if you do all the work then can only blame yourself for not liking something. If you don't like it then you have to take the time to change it with the tools and expendable materials you have invested in.

I like some of the things this guy states for reasons to consider before the project begins:
http://www.paneldoctor.com/demo/tr3/stage1.htm

I'm just a hobbyist and don't make a living doing any of this work - I have a JOB and this is a HOBBY thus want to keep it that way. Below is a picture link of a few of my fav guns and there are and has been several others - have some that are not pictured. :) The Iwata LPH400-LV(top coat) and Nesco NP868(primer gun) are my favorite. For Jim the Sharpe 998 older style 1 qt pressure pot gun with a 1.2mm tip setup in the pic is a good gun and uses very little air 7.5cfm@50psi. Notice the HF 43430 gun(air hog but good gun) and an ASTRO STAR HVLP DX1.3mm gun(good gun). Notice the FL3(air hog but good gun). ANYWAY I like a lot of different paint guns but there are some guns that feel aren't worth the money from the upper end. Some of it is my personal opinion. :)
http://home.comcast.net/~dcofer4/KingsHorses2.jpg

Like the Sata Jet 90(discontinued) and Sata Jet RP but they are conventional and compliant guns respectfully - not HVLP.

I've tried to give and provide focus for the intent of this post concerning my reasons and beliefs so if it has varied from what you really seek then apologize. If nothing else maybe have explained why I choose to do this as a HOBBY. Have been doing it for a long while and it is worth sharing.

There is a pitfall and sometimes obvious when trying to help people on forums which can be difficult because of a misunderstanding due to the form of communication. It is hard to keep from writing a book but yet get the information out that feel is necessary. :(

Good Luck,

Don
P.S.
JIM,
Parts for SATA Spray guns are sold in matched sets. A MATCHED nozzle, needle, and air cap for the NR95 is listed at about ~$140. If you need just the air cap for the SATA then you have to buy the whole MATCHED kit at the higher expense - not usually so with other paint gun brands.
SATA SPRAY EQUIPMENT / Pt#: SAT-34801
NR-95 NOZZLE SET--1.4
List Price: $180.00
Our Price: $138.60
http://search.cartserver.com/search/sea ... ywords=SAT

EXAMPLE:
A link with better selections but higher prices for NR95 matched sets ~$163:
http://www.handsontools.com/store-produ ... 19239.html

EXAMPLE:
Yet Another place - expensive:
http://www.spraygunrepair.com/



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 5:16 pm
Wow, thanks D17.

Where I got the idea the FL3 wasn't very good was in a post by Brandon. He listed several guns (FL3 being one) and asked which to get. All but 1 gun listed was less expensive. No one picked the FL3. The sharp finex and astro (both being less expensive) seemed to get the vote.

Yes, I'll practice a bunch. I have a gallon of base and a gallon of reducer (1 1/2 gallons of product) and extra clear to practice with. I have the hood and fenders off of the car and will do them over and over and until I get it right.
The prep is one thing I do understand. I've helped a friend who was trying to get a body and paint shop going. By helping him on a few projects, I got the feel of what it takes to get the panels ready for paint, but oddly enough, I was never around for the fun stuff (the painting).

To the question "you intend to do more then one project?" Yes, this will not be a one time thing for me, just as playing around with cars isn't. I'm in this thing for the long haul.
Some projects/car stuff I have going on now, below.. Including my $.99 cents a can "white trash project" lol...


86 coupe (project white trash) in the process
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Same angle finished with 99 cents a can Wal-Mart spray paint.
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SHowing a little "spray bomb" shine... lol
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Project white trash getting a face lift with 87-93 nose, tail, hood, body molding, 1/4 windows and head and tail lights. This will be my first "real" paint project. It will be Ford's color deep jewel metallic green. Similar in color to the convertible below.
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Another project, not paint and body.. well not yet anyway.
92 mustang convertible, more of a toy
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Pretty, ain't she?
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Showing off
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Project on hold for now.. 82 GT with 87-93 nose, tail ect. You can see a piece of the spray painted coupe (Project W.T.) on the edge.
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Another angle of the 82... The blurple 80 f150 (in the background)is on the waiting list for restore as well. The engine in picture (left) is ready to go back in.. I might sell the truck tho and let be someone elses project, as I have enough going.
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and my daily beater. 94 F250
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D71 wrote:I've tried to give and provide focus for the intent of this post concerning my reasons and beliefs so if it has varied from what you really seek then apologize. If nothing else maybe have explained why I choose to do this as a HOBBY. Have been doing it for a long while and it is worth sharing.

There is a pitfall and sometimes obvious when trying to help people on forums which can be difficult because of a misunderstanding due to the form of communication. It is hard to keep from writing a book but yet get the information out that feel is necessary. :(
Man, write me a book.. lol. I'm trying to absorb every bit of knowledge I can find (in books on the net ect..) For me, you couldn't post too much info and I very much appreciate your time posting!!!!!!!

Thanks again, D17 !!!!
Mike
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