Spot Repair or Redo the Hood?

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:17 pm
Glad to hear the Kirker covered in 2 coats. From what I've heard, the candy bases required 3 or more coats to cover.
I guess I'll stay on the safe side and spray some reduced epoxy over the Slicksand.



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:30 pm
thats probably not a bad idea ed. just to be on the safe side. If you got the warmth by you. use it while you can. what brand are you using?
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 10:19 pm
Kirker. I used their Rapid Prime 2k, I like that too.



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 12:27 am
The best thing about playing it safe and spraying epoxy is, I won't have to measure the humidity for osmosis.

:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 12:30 am
oh god! or surface tension! :rotfl:
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 11:52 pm
I hit the Slicksand with 180 on a DA, then blocked with 220 and 320. Guide coat was completely gone both times. Looks good so far. We should have warm enough weather for the greenhouse through Tuesday, so I'm going to wet sand with 500 tomorrow, then spray the color and clear on Tuesday. I'll keep an electric heater going in the greenhouse overnight, with reflective panels against the plastic walls. Hopefully, they'll be no more imperfections. Still trying to figure out why I didn't see them with a coat of clear over the 2k primer. These new glasses must be off.
Yeah. That's it. The new glasses. That's the ticket!
:happy:



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:02 am
ed just a precaution before you put your color down, wet the panel with grease/wax remover and pick a light source to watch the reflection in the panel. if the light reflection gets all wavy or distorted, you know your quite not yet flat. just a simple tip so you don't waste more money on base etc. Peace.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:23 am
,,you guys been smokin crack AGAIN?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:11 am
:rotfl:
No crack Rick. Apparently, I just don't see too good anymore. Either that, or I'm just rushing whenever I get good weather.
Maybe I should relax at night with a little Crown.
Ronnie, I used the w&g remover method, but I didn't see anything. This hood has been a nightmare. In hindsight, I should have left the old filler, especially since there was no rust under any of it. Before stripping, top side of the hood looked flawless.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 12:25 pm
Once your guide coat is gone at the 180-220 stage in your filler, it should be "flat"..... :?

Then put down 2-3 coats of urethane primer (don't need anything else at this point). Now you can wet sand (or dry) and see if you see any imperfections in the reflection of your water or wax and grease remover. I couldn't imagine using clear on filler or primer, but kudos to you for going the extra mile. ;)

Remember, the Crown is for after you get done painting. That way you don't get mad and break/spill something like I would when I make a mistake.
:goodjob:
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