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Spot Repair or Redo the Hood?

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 1:17 pm
Pivco was one of the first suppliers I used. Never had a problem with them and delivery was always fast.



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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 5:29 am
Got an early Christmas gift last night - a gallon of Shopline and a gallon of reducer. Castillian gold.
From a friend who needed help installing an Andersen bay window last Spring. Too heavy to help much, just showed the way and installed the interior trim.
This was totally unexpected. It took less than two days to install the window, and was treated at a nice restaurant for dinner both days. I thought that was too much, but he said I saved him $1200 by convincing him to do it with his two sons.
I can resume with the original color, and will save $81 for another gallon of red.
So, I'll sand the red with my buffer and 80 grit, make the repairs, and reprime the hood.
I'm sure glad I didn't get around to painting the fenders!



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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 2:31 pm
Hey thats great!. i just ordered my first order of kirker carbon fiber metallic bc/cc and there hot rod flat black and some wax and grease remover. From pivco. Now the greatest part. I emailed kirker for there booklet and color chart etc. and believe it or not they responded today!. I know it was not an automatic response because when i emailed them back for thanking them, specially on x-mas eve, then i got the outta the office automated results. If this paint turns out the way i have heard. Well i have a better supplier for my lower budget paint jobs, or hi-end! just depends on the color choices. Thanks again ed. for turning me on to pivco. I could of driven down there to pick up my stuff, but at only 19 dollars shipping, i would of probably only saved about 8 bucks with gas and all. :allgood:
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 6:41 pm
Those kits have Ultra-Lock to convert the SS to basecoat, and their MS Clear.
(If it hasn't shipped yet, try to upgrade to the Ultra clear. It's a better product, not much more expensive, and from what I've heard, easier to spray. I sprayed some test panels with it, it's super glossy, and doesn't run easily. It was the first urethane clearcoat I ever sprayed.)
All their clears can be buffed easily, even after a week, from what I'm told.
Can't wait to try the Shopline. Some say it's renamed Omni, but PPG still sells both, and Shopline is about $150 more for the same color. What I thought was $275 for DBU with reducer, was actually Shopline. I misunderstood the jobber. Hopefully, this covers better than Omni.
Merry Christmas!



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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 8:36 pm
i was gonna go what looked to be the better clear, but i have like 6 gallans of urathane clear coats almost all full lying around the shop, so anyone will work well. I'm excited to give this a shot with the kirker paints and see what we have here. I'll put up pics once the color is on the 70 buick, then the stripe layout, then the stripes, then the overall clear. Hopefully the base will cover nicely. I've noticed the cheap paints are thin to begin with, never mind after reducing them!
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2011 7:57 am
I used Kirker Black Diamond basecoat on some practice panels, mixed 4:1:1, and got the same 2 coat coverage as I did with the red SS, minus the OP. It seemed rather thin, but it still covered well. Their diamond pearl and candy bases are different, and rather transparent. JC Clark used their bright orange candy base in SS and needed almost two gallons for his Civic.
Unfortunately, their carbon fiber is a candy base, so don't expect too much. One thing they should do, is label their candy bases and diamond pearls separate from ultra-glo, and have separate tech sheets. There's some info on the Spectra candy tech sheets for the metallic candy bases that isn't on the ultr-glo tech sheet:
Urethane Candy Base (UCB) Colors
Apply metallic base in even coats with consistent overlap as necessary to achieve full hiding (coverage) while maintaining even distribution of aluminum. Be sure to allow at least ten (10) minutes flash time between coats (+/- depending on airflow and temperature). Insufficient flash times will result in a re-floating of the extra coarse metallic, causing a mottled finish. In most cases, three wet coats will be enough to provide sufficient coverage. A final Drop Coat may be applied lightly, to help even out the aluminum distribution and conceal any mottled areas.
Consistent application technique is important with UCB Series colors, because they will become increasingly rich as more material is applied. UCB Series colors are made with the same intense pigments used in the candy colors, so it is possible to achieve a darker shade by applying the base in heavy wet coats, or in additional coats.
Because it will be topcoated with candy, UCB01 does not have to be applied wet. It is more critical to ensure the metallic base is applied evenly, without mottling.
That last part is optional, the candy bases don't have to be topcoated with candy, any clearcoat will do.



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:01 pm
Finally got some good weather. Almost 60° outside today, so I sanded the red paint off the hood, except the low spots where the dings were. Rather than fill them, I pulled them out using the stud welder. Sprayed 2 coats of Slicksand, and plan on block sanding tomorrow. We're in for another cold snap, so I won't be able to paint for a while.
I can get the greenhouse to over 80°, so should I spray some epoxy over the Slicksand? Or, will it hold up for a couple of weeks until I can get some color on it? I'd prefer not to attempt to paint it yet, because if I run into problems, there won't be time to get clear on within the window. I'd rather wait until I have a whole day.
I'll have to scuff either way, so if I don't absolutely have to spray the epoxy, I'd rather not.



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:16 pm
ed, i don't think its necessary. once dried. i would cover it up with a bag or something, to keep moisture and dew off the slicksand. then rescuff when your ready to apply your primer or sealer or epoxy. I say cover it only because slicksand is pourous. But again. make sure it's good and dry! Don't want to trap the solvents releasing in the bag. :goodjob:
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:35 pm
Thanks Ronnie. It's the porous part I'm concerned with, because it gets quite humid here, even in Winter. Can I get a cloth cover once the Slicksand is dry enough? All I have is vinyl at the moment, which will definitely trap moisture. It'll be down to about 45° tomorrow, but I should be able to get the greenhouse to over 70°, and if I leave a heater on overnight, it should be dry enough on Monday. I can't leave the greenhouse up too long, it'll never hold up if it gets too windy, so I'll move the hood into the garage. Finally got some room for it if I stand it up. The underside already has 2 coats of AE in the gold color, and it's a pretty close match to the Shopline I got for Christmas. Too bad it wasn't Nason, I see in the tech sheet that Nason can be recoated anytime.
Have you sprayed the carbon fiber metallic yet?



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:46 pm
a cloth is pouros too. so i'm not sure about that honestly. And yes i shot the cf. layed down awesome covered in two coats. Customer wants to drop in that 455 so were holding off on a few things. picked up another job yesterday a full job on a 77 corvette. Gotta trailer that over in a week or so. The funny thing is that i can buy the kirker approx 45 min from were my shops at, so i can save on shipping. aka. autobodytoolmart. I had no clue!!!! But was very happy with there paint. No more hawethorne on the cheap jobs. there junk. :allgood:
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