yep sand with 800. i do not wet sand nor would i recommend doing so. it is very very labor intensive and takes to long IMO. i dry sand using 3m hookit purple clean sand 6" DA paper
and Kovax lemon paper. can cut remask and reclear all in a days work. things to consider when reclearing is clear acts different over cut clear, it flows and runs easier, i use two tack coats and a third wet coat.

I dont know about using a DA for this... For myself anyways. I would hate to go through the clear and into the paint. I only have two coats of clear on as it is so I want to scuff it just enough to spray another few layers so I can wet sand and buff later on.

I don't mind it taking awhile and scuffing it with 800 so I can shoot another few layers of clear.

Have you ever used the Grey scotch brite pad before? I hear and see that used a lot for scuffing up the clear before re shooting.

Would I be safe to use A wax and grease remover final wipe before re spraying the clear? Or rubbing alcohol or something?

yes gray works nice. the Kovak lemon paper works a lot better. take a full sheet of the kovax paper and fold it over a scotch brite. normally i recomend and teach washing off with water to get sanding residue off the car being water soluble then wax and grease. but yes wax and grease before clearing. and yes i would agree to not use a DA

So I was spraying the box and fenders and tailgate and such and in doing so I put some painters plastic sheeting over the truck cab with the doors on thinking it had enough time to off gas since its been about 3 weeks.

After removing the plastic I notice that some areas look a bit milky or cloudy now... I am assuming this is caused by the plastic somehow trapping moisture or not allowing the clear to off gas??

The cab, hood and doors are the parts I am gonna be adding more clear to but now I am freaking out cause I don't know if this cloudiness is gonna be deep..How do you get fix this? I can't believe the plastic caused this as I sprayed the clear like 3 weeks ago..

Your thoughts?

Decided in order to get the ghost or milkyness in the clear left from the plastic I was gonna have to cut the clear and re shoot it. So today I spent all day scuffing the clear. I decided to use p1000 grit though just in case I went through the clear too fast with the p800, and I couldn't find any of the lemon paper stuff you were speaking of.. So far it looks alright. I got the majority of the bug marks out. There is still some spots the size of a pin, but I fear if I sand anymore to remove it I will completely go through the clear. So I am hoping the new clear will fill it in.

I can't wait until I have no more sanding to do ever.

Will keep you posted.

That cloudiness was over spray. Could've simply rubbed it with a clay bar. Could be wrong but if the paint not being based enough was covered in plastic it would most likely imprint it. I'm betting you could've rubbed your hand over the milky spots and it felt rough. Nothing you did wrong this is very common and mostly on glass when you bag a car with plastic. No matter how good you bag it some paint always seams to find its way to the glass and other parts of the car.

Thanks for the input. I wish it was just over spray. Apparently it was from the plastic not letting the clear off gas still. The plastic didn't allow the clear to breathe. Surprisingly it was very very smooth where the milkiness was. I talked to the shop where I buy my supplies and the guy I deal with use to work in a body shop for years. He told me that, and the clear is still off gassing for about two months.

O well... I wanted to apply more clear to the to the parts I only had two coats on before the compressor died so might as well do it now. Just gonna have to wait for a less humid day.

on the top part of the door there is a spot I might have to spot paint though. I don't know what happened but it looks like the primer under the paint lifted... It's a very very small spot but I gotta fix it or it will bug me forever.

any advice on spot painting. I will be re clearing the whole door so I don't have to worry about blending the clear. I guess sand it down until blemish is gone, tape off area, prime (if needed), re color and clear the whole panel? Does that sound about right?

Yep sounds about right l. Use P800 to clear over.
Sorry to hear it wasn't just overspray