Candy Apple Red over black?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2016 9:47 am
I have read that SOME universal clears do not stick as well to HOK base coats if you let the base coat sit for too long. But if you clear them quick everything adheres properly. In my limited experience I have not had any problems with universal clear over HOK base coats. That’s probably because I clear them in less than an hour. I have a HOK/Finish1 universal clear sample taped to the roof of my Jeep that I sprayed about a year ago (long story behind it). It’s holding up great.

I do not like the intercoat clear. I have used 2 different ones (Sherwin Williams and HOK SG100) and had problems with both wrinkling on me. I use universal clear for the same applications and have no problems. But that’s just me.

A couple of ideas on how to approach this.

Paint the whole vehicle black and immediately shoot one good coat of clear over the whole thing. The next day sand the whole vehicle and tape out your design. Then spray the red, pull the tape, and follow quickly with a coat of clear over the whole thing. Sand the whole thing and final clear. This is going to leave you with a ridge at the edge of the red due to extra thickness of the red. The red HOK basecoat candy you are using is fairly transparent as far as basecoats go. It takes a few good coats to achieve the color you want. Each coat builds millage. So every coat you spray is going to add to that ridge. It can be buried with a few coats of clear, but that’s just more material.

Another option is to lay the colors next to each other. Tape off and paint the black, and lay an extra couple of coats. The idea is to build the black up to have the same build thickness as the red will have. Spray one good coat of clear soon after the black flashes. Pull all the tape in short order and wait a day or so. Then tape off and do the black with the red over it followed quick by a good coat of clear. Pull the tape and wait a day or so then sand the whole thing and final clear. This is more work, but will eliminate the ridge and reduce the material used.

Just my thoughts.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2016 10:15 am
answered your stuff in Bold





b4runner wrote:Ya the plan is to paint the bottom of the truck in the Candy apple red, and the top half just below the windows the black. The process was gonna be paint the cab first with the two tone. and pain the doors black off the truck. When the doors are flashed enough and given a little bit of time to dry, put the doors on to line up the pin stripe for the two tone, mask the doors, take them off and pain the candy.


What is DBC500? Is it like an intercoat clear? yeah is a intercoat like SG100 HoK

How often do you handle painted areas without the clear on yet, say for example a door lol. let it flash for a hour be careful and should be ok

I was planning on using the Valspar Clear actually as I was told it should work great over the house of Kolors as Valspar owns HOK now. I was told that by many people actually. What's the difference between the clears? just because valspar bought a company dont mean their clear will stick to the paint. as matter of fact it was DeBeer clear "owened by valspar that has fell off. trust me do not use anything buy hok clear over their basecoat

Ok thanks for the tip, I guess I will wait a little long before I put the tape on and mask. I was just going by what the Tech sheet was saying.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 7:21 pm
Well after about 20 hours straight of painting the black with the doors off, installing the doors to line up for the two tone break line. Removal of the doors and masking and candy and clear. I got the truck done minus the bed and front fenders. The compressor pulley died on clear coat number 2, but I got two coats of clear on which is alright.

I did have some a couple mosquitos that wanted to be part of my hood, so I will have to do some repair there but aside from that it turned out pretty good. I think once I assemble the truck, I will scuff the clear and shoot another couple coats of clear on it, also to fix the bug marks.

I didn't realize HOK base has a 4 hour window in which you need to clear. The Valspar base coat you have 24 hours, so I had to rush a bit to do the clear. Does that Valspar clear ever lay nice.. very little orange peel at all, might not even cut and buff it.

So whats the best way to tackle bug marks in clear?
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 7:27 pm
Pictures are a little crappy but it's hard to get a good pictures since I am not in a spray booth with extreme lighting, although it is good lighting.

I did decide to go with the Valspar clear as I had it already and couldn't return it. I have heard multiple positive things about it and success with using it over HOK base coat system. If I was going to do a true UK candy then I would have used HOK. I did call the HOK tech line to ask them about the difference and compatibility and all they said was that they haven't tried it... and like every company they recommend their products cause they know they work together. Time will tell if it holds up

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 12:08 am
It may or may not hold up. If you was using a UK Kandy any clear will go over that. But other clears tend to fall off house of Kolor. One thing you can do in the future is add 5% hardener to the base. Looks good. All the Valspar and house of Kolor guys are friends of mine. Get some good photos when you can and post them up
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 5:43 am
what has been your experience with it not holding up? How does it not hold up? Does it flake off or something? If so how long does it take? I know the House of Kolor KBC base only has a 4 hour window before you have to clear... as oppose to 24 hrs. Perhaps that is where people are running into issues?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 6:57 am
my experience is the clear falls off. Wether you clear right after or not. Sometimes it holds and sometimes it don't.
In the future use HoK clear over their basecoat. The next day you can cut it with 800 and use whatever clear you want.

The clear fell the door jambs on my truck. But not on the outside. Who knows. I do know I'll never risk it again.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 7:57 am
Well thanks for the input.... If I could have returned the Valspar clear I would have bought the HOK... but then again I am using a Hok clear of a Valspar black base... If I was to plan it over again I would have just used one brand... I guess we will wait and see.

Do you have an experience at removing bug marks in the clear? I had two dead bug fall in the first coat of clear... I removed the bugs but they left marks. I will try and get a good picture

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 8:07 am
Most of the time you can just cut with 800 and reclear.

Don't be to worried about your paint not trying to scare you lol

You should be fine I know a lot of people that use other clears and works great.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 7:18 am
So wet sanding the clear I just sprayed is course enough to get good adhesion with the new clear I am gonna re spray?

What are the usual steps when you clear over existing clear? I don't imagine I can use wax and grease remover or anything can I ? Or should I wait a couple weeks? I hear that clear can take a month or so to fully cure.

Right now I only have two coats of clear on the truck and would like to wet sand and buff, not to mention fix a few flaws like a couple bug marks. So I am thinking of wet sanding the whole truck with p800 grit and then re clearing in order to get enough thickness to wet sand and buff later on.
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