General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!
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I would only use the catalyst that is recomended. I did not have the right catalyst for a job and called them to see if i could substitute the ku152 with ku 150 they said not to, that I would have problems. this is what the tech sheet says for the UC 35
5. MIXING UC35 KOSMIC URETHANE KLEAR
(MIX ONLY WHEN READY TO SPRAY)
• 2 parts Kosmic Acrylic Urethane Klear
• 1 part KU150 Catalyst or KU151 Exempt Hi Temp Flo-Catalyst
• 1 part RU- Reducer
URETHANE FLASH TEST - PAINT SHOULD BE STICKY AND NOT STRING WHEN TOUCHED AT THE WETTEST POINT BEFORE NEXT COAT IS APPLIED. (When using the flash test, always touch a new spot.) Monitor closely for maximum merging of coats.
NOTE: Waiting too long between coats can cause re-coat problems. If excessive dry time has elapsed and clear coat feels dry to the touch, allow 12 hours before sanding and re-coating to avoid lifting problems.
Here is another note off of the tech sheet.....
NOTE: We have designed specific Catalysts to work with each of our clears. These Catalysts are NOT interchangeable. Use only the Catalyst specified for the specific clear you are using.
I agree with what's been said. The folks at HOK know a lot more about their stuff then us end users do. Having said that . . . if you look at page 60 of the tech manual, it lists the products that the catalysts will work with. KU 100 is faster curring and will work with Uk Kandies, UC35, UFC35, UC01 and UFC01 Klears.
The RU 150 is a medium curring catalyst (meets VOC regulations) and works with UK Kandy, UC35, UFC35, UC01, UFC01, UC01, Klears and UFC01 Flo-Klear. It also works with Ko-Seal II Sealers.
So it looks like you can use either KU100 or KU150 with most of the products ONLY the Ko-Seal II Sealer DOES NOT LIST the KU100 as an option. So to me it looks like for the rest you can pick the fast or medium catalyst depending on temperature and shop conditions. Mel
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2008 5:21 pm
I tried substituting an spi sealer hardener with nason primer once in a bind, BIG mistake, it balled up on the sandpaper, never hardened and had to scrape it off with a razorblade. it would hurt manafacturers sales if they made a universal hardener for everything, and it would be way too convenient for the painter
They couln't make a universal catalyst even if they wanted to.. every system has it's own chemistry you can't mix water with oil due to their atomic structures , the same applies for paints and catalysts as well but if you do know the exact chemistry of a clear (and it's not a hybrid) you can use the same type of catalyst even if it's from a different company, most of the big companies get their catalysts from the same third party provider,, too rich and powerful to build another production line in one of their 29109231 factory sites... but to be safe don't do as I say, use their tech sheets.
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/~/med ... e/tsg.ashx
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