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First Paint Job, need advice on how "far" to prep

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 2:21 am
Hey all,

I recently bought a car that needs a paint job, and some minor body work. It's in pretty good shape and I plan on just driving it around every day once it's ready, but I also know that a good paint job will help preserve it.

It seems the car was repainted in the '80s and although I don't know how to tell, it appears that lacquer was used. The paint is sort of faded now, or maybe didn't get a clear? In any case, someone tried to bring it back as you can see all kinds of fine scratch marks in the paint when you look in the right light.

From what I've read on this site, the best possible paint job would involve going right down to metal. Although I want to do it right, I don't know that I have the time for a project that big as this is supposed to be our second vehicle for now.

My question is, what factors affect whether or not to strip right down to steel, or to respray?

There are some rust spots that will need repair, and as mentioned, I think the paint is a lacquer, do those 2 factors automatically mean starting over?

Also, I've recently discovered that the paint job isn't the same colour as the factory, and in a few spots where the new stuff is cracked or peeling, the factory paint can be seen.

Keep in mind I have ZERO body work experience, and my practice panels will be the first time I ever use a spray gun.

Going straight to the metal is the best answer I'm sure, but I'm kind of afraid of what I mind find under it, and that maybe i'll find something I can't repair on my own?

Here's an okay pic:

20120614_160000.jpg


Thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 10:15 pm
If its your 2nd vehicle, and needed for everyday driving I would say DO NOT DO IT! wait untill you can spend them time and do it right. based on your review with rust cracked paint and having 2 layers of paint and with laquer having a high mill thickness I would say go down to bare metal. can you scuff and shoot yes... but it would last very long at all and you will basically be just tossing those 100$ bills in the waste basket! waiting till its a un needed car will allow you to leave the worry of " what if i tear it down and cant fix it " at the door. this is just my .02
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 3:39 am
Yeah that's kind of the route I was thinking. I hate doing things half ****.

I'm going to need to pull everything off and go down to bare metal, I've read that a D-A sander with 80 grit is the best way.

Is it necessary to remove all of the body panels that can be? I.E. hood, doors, fenders and trunk lid?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 6:37 am
You said,,"the car was repainted in the '80s and although I don't know how to tell, it appears that lacquer was used".

If its Lacquer,,,it will rub off with a lacquer thinner on a towel. It will also clog 80 grit sand paper pretty fast. If the paint is real thick on the car i would use chemical stripper on it first,,,then the 80 grit.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 2:28 am
OldDupontGuy wrote:You said,,"the car was repainted in the '80s and although I don't know how to tell, it appears that lacquer was used".

If its Lacquer,,,it will rub off with a lacquer thinner on a towel. It will also clog 80 grit sand paper pretty fast. If the paint is real thick on the car i would use chemical stripper on it first,,,then the 80 grit.


I'll check with the lacquer thinner this week, I guess it doesn't really matter though if i'm getting rid of it all, but a good learning tool.

What's a good stripper to use, and how much of it would typically be required to do a whole car? I live in a small town and might have to order it all ahead of time.

Thanks a lot guys!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 12:19 pm
Rocketninja1 wrote:
OldDupontGuy wrote:You said,,"the car was repainted in the '80s and although I don't know how to tell, it appears that lacquer was used".

If its Lacquer,,,it will rub off with a lacquer thinner on a towel. It will also clog 80 grit sand paper pretty fast. If the paint is real thick on the car i would use chemical stripper on it first,,,then the 80 grit.


I'll check with the lacquer thinner this week, I guess it doesn't really matter though if i'm getting rid of it all, but a good learning tool.

What's a good stripper to use, and how much of it would typically be required to do a whole car? I live in a small town and might have to order it all ahead of time.

Thanks a lot guys!




Kind of a question thats hard to answer, I would take a piece of 36 and just put some random heave scratches in the paint then apply a air craft stripper. This stuff is potent so read the MSDS sheet and have a plan if you get it on or in you. let it soak then razor it off.... I would personally check with the supplier and ask if you can return un used cans of it... If so buy several and what you don't use you can bring back for either a credit or refund.
MissouriPaintSlinger

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:31 am
Repainting an old Gutless Cutlass?

Ok well ya it looks like hell with the Vinyl roof pulled off, But a bare metal job done right is worth 5-10 grand depending on how well of a job you do in the end, And as far as doing it for a "First timer" "paint job" dont expect too much! and I would highly suggest against it for any first time painter! just too much work to learn with.

OH and I dont know of any plane Jane Cutlass that's worth more than 4 grand so I wouldn't do the job at all.
There are a few Rare Cutlasses out there that are worth it just not too many.


If it were me I would do a simple repaint right over the top of whats there :wink: It will look good last a good long time and give you some skills to use to build upon! for when you do doo it right. If you keep the car that long.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 9:26 am
From the pic looks like you just need to blast the roof only then prep it proper and seal it with epoxy primer followed with 2K urethane. Proceed from there.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 12:08 pm
I would keep it simple like Tim is saying

But taking a Car to bare metal is over kill
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 4:44 pm
Doright wrote:I would keep it simple like Tim is saying

But taking a Car to bare metal is over kill
Image




Lets get it done! This looks like the fun's gettin ready to start :)
MissouriPaintSlinger

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