metal prep - dawn soap - Eastwood pre prep whats next

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 4:46 pm
Hi to all;
i just joined the group. What a fantastic sight. I have read and reread a lot of posts. As a newbie my biggest challenge right now is trying to understand your lingo. A lot of you seem to talk in code making it a little difficult to understand. However I think I'm catching on.
I am building a 1931 Model A pick up truck out of a 4-door car and part of the restoration pleasure is doing myself what I can which includes the painting. At least I'm trying and its very interesting.
Last fall I brought my brand new Brookfield bare metal pick up truck box, rear fenders and splash shields to my brother in law to prime in his back woods shop, a few days later the primer lifted on every piece, many many hours were spent stripping the primer to bare metal to redo it. We used Nason epoxy primer mixed 2:1 as per instructions. Originally the metal had a light oil coating to prevent rusting so here were the steps I took before applying the primer:
1. sprayed laquer thinner on and wiped off until rag was pretty clean
2. sprayed and wiped down with acetone until all clean
3. washed everything down with soap and water
4. sanded all surfaces with 100 grit paper
5. loaded all metal body parts in my trailer and brought to painting shop, temp was cool around 50 deg. f.
6. loaded all parts into warmed up shop and waited for an hour before applying primer
7. used HVLP setup, no runs, no orange peel, overall looked real good
8. waited an hour before loading into trailer and brought back home
9. two mornings later I noticed about 4 blister marks on every piece, sanded with 320 grit wet and feathered it back nice
10. next morning the feathered edge was gone, blistered away to twice the size.
11. talking to Dupont Rep, says I must have picked up moisture going from cold to warmer atmosphere
12. could it also be the acetone ?

Days and days were spent removing the primer, started reading this forum. Sanded all metal with 80 grit, Last week I successfully spray primered all the new metal parts with my new Devilbiss finishline spray gun, Right now I have a small amount of overspray to sand off with 400 grit.

today I purchased some tach cloth, good quality 400 grit paper, dawn soap, I have plenty of Eastwood pre-painting prep.

I realize most of you guys are professionals in this field, I've read and followed all the safety rules. I dont have a spray booth so when I primered the parts it was out in my back yard. My compressor hoses reach long enough. I want to do the best job I can under the circumstances and I'm willing to accept a few flaws, at least I will be able to say I did it myself.

Are these the right steps to go from here ? if not, please chime in, I respect your professional advice.

1. wet sand with 400 grit ,the epoxy primered parts to remove slight oversprays
2. wash with warm water and dawn soap
3. spray on Eastwood pre painting prep, wipe down with clean fibre cloth, let dry - is this necessary ?
4. use compressor to blow off any dust especially in hidden areas
5. tach cloth all metal to be painted
6. drain water from compressor and decadent dryer,
7. paint only in non-humid weather
8. mix solvent type base coat (black)
9. roll out of garage shop the equipment to be painted
10. wipe off last ten feet of compressor hose
11. set-up and test pattern for spraying the base coat
note: I have a 13CFM compressor with 3/8 hose, using 23 lbs. inlet pressure at the gun, gauge reads about 100 when not triggered.

Looking forward to replies, thanks so much
Trainguy

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 5:09 pm
I have to agree with the Rep. When ever you take cold parts and put in a warm or hot booth, you will have condensation problems. Ive seen it happen to many times.
I would have waited for over 2 hrs, and then check for moisture on the parts.

O-yeah,,,You should never use Lacquer thinner to clean the car with,,it leaves a residue.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 7:37 pm
Just a thought here but did you wear gloves when handling the metal after washing it?
After the dawn dish soap and water it says you sanded with 100 grit and loaded the parts into a warm shop. Its always a good practice to wipe the parts down with Wax and Grease Remover and let flash before painting. Just provides that extra insurance against contamination.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 8:49 pm
Actually I used normal car wash soap (not Dawn) in warm water at first, also touched the metal with rubber gloves only so I didnt contaminate the metal. I found out later that normal car wash soap does not remove wax, that must be the reason you guys use Dawn dish soap.

So now I have to prepare the spray primered metal to receive the base coat but I'm not getting any replies to the procedure which I listed in the initial post. I just want someone to check & see if I missed anything and or did I list the procedure in proper order

Hope this helps
Thanks
modelaguy

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 10:58 pm
modelaguy wrote: . . .

Are these the right steps to go from here ? if not, please chime in, I respect your professional advice.

1. wet sand with 400 grit ,the epoxy primered parts to remove slight oversprays

Would be nice to see what you are actually working on. Usually there is a couple of rounds of 2k build primer and block sanding to get things straight before jumping to base coat.

2. wash with warm water and dawn soap

If this is freshly sprayed epoxy primer this step is unnecessary.

3. spray on Eastwood pre painting prep, wipe down with clean fibre cloth, let dry - is this necessary ?

I don't use Eastwood products so I am not sure what this stuff is. If it is Wax and Grease Remover than yes it is necessary to wipe it off before it dries and then let it flash.

4. use compressor to blow off any dust especially in hidden areas
5. tach cloth all metal to be painted
6. drain water from compressor and decadent dryer,
7. paint only in non-humid weather

I guess since you are painting outside this might be a good idea. Inside it doesn't matter.

8. mix solvent type base coat (black)

Hopefully a urethane based product.


9. roll out of garage shop the equipment to be painted
10. wipe off last ten feet of compressor hose
11. set-up and test pattern for spraying the base coat
note: I have a 13CFM compressor with 3/8 hose, using 23 lbs. inlet pressure at the gun, gauge reads about 100 when not triggered.

Looking forward to replies, thanks so much
Trainguy


If you are wanting this car to look sweet you'll need to follow the steps in the sticky post on prepping for paint.
Without some type of build primer and a few rounds of block sanding you will only be accenting every fault on the vehicle by painting it black.

Since you are using a base coat you will need to be ready to spray your clear coat sessions as well.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 6:44 am
Modelaguy said,,"paint only in non-humid weather"

If you are not using Water-Borne,,,There is no reason why you should worry about humid weather. I get my best jobs when its raining outside......






(Good post 68)
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 8:05 am
OldDupontGuy wrote:
O-yeah,,,You should never use Lacquer thinner to clean the car with,,it leaves a residue.


Well he did it as a first step. I would have to say that there is some stuff that only lacquer thinner will remove. I'm also not sure of what kind of lacquer you guys have down there (you talk about grades), which I'm sure we have up here, but I can't seem to find a lower grade.. Ours is bloody expensive, and doesn't seem to leave a residue at all.. I should microscope it one day.



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 9:57 am
JohnnyK wrote:
OldDupontGuy wrote:
O-yeah,,,You should never use Lacquer thinner to clean the car with,,it leaves a residue.


Well he did it as a first step. I would have to say that there is some stuff that only lacquer thinner will remove. I'm also not sure of what kind of lacquer you guys have down there (you talk about grades), which I'm sure we have up here, but I can't seem to find a lower grade.. Ours is bloody expensive, and doesn't seem to leave a residue at all.. I should microscope it one day.


Then by all means start using it as a cleaner and let us know how your stuff turns out. :roll:

Lacquer thinner is NOT a cleaning solvent. It is a fast recycled solvent that just swirls the contaminates around and leaves even more on the panel. Johnny there is a thread here that explains the use of "uneducated guesses". You should have a look...



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 10:13 am
jeremyb wrote:
JohnnyK wrote:
OldDupontGuy wrote:
O-yeah,,,You should never use Lacquer thinner to clean the car with,,it leaves a residue.


Well he did it as a first step. I would have to say that there is some stuff that only lacquer thinner will remove. I'm also not sure of what kind of lacquer you guys have down there (you talk about grades), which I'm sure we have up here, but I can't seem to find a lower grade.. Ours is bloody expensive, and doesn't seem to leave a residue at all.. I should microscope it one day.


Then by all means start using it as a cleaner and let us know how your stuff turns out. :roll:

Lacquer thinner is NOT a cleaning solvent. It is a fast recycled solvent that just swirls the contaminates around and leaves even more on the panel. Johnny there is a thread here that explains the use of "uneducated guesses". You should have a look...


Read the last sentence there bud.

Yes, I'm sure you're a great painter. But I'm also sure you're a terrible chemist and engineer.



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 10:25 am
:worthy:


:rotfl:

Ah...well you got me. I guess those who TEACH the same thing, you have one over on them also. Carry on with your chemistry and engineer way of doing things...it has gotten you so far here. :goodjob:
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