Thinning the final clear coat?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:52 pm
I'm talking about 2-5 psi increase with an RP/compliant gun not 50psi with the old conventional JGA,big difference and will not cause dirt issues.As long as you stay in the recommended pressure(max 35psi for sata rp) you will not use anymore material or cause more orange peel/texture.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:07 am
Well okay. Thanks for opinions all. Ill spray thinned clear and as most have said work on balance and technique. Kinda sounds like karate. while on the clearcoat topic can I add a layer of clearcoat to one that is 24 hours old but has been in cooler temp overnight?
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:25 pm
TheCarFactory wrote:Too high pressure can invite side reactions and bring up dirt. As spotless as a booth you work, there will always be some minor dirt. Upping the pressure means upping your material volume or getting dry spray. If material/pressure are not in balance, you'll just get of that orange peel you're trying to avoid in the first place.

On a hvlp upping the psi won't do any thing other than atomizing the clear better, & it wont cause orange peel, & wont kick up dirt. But like jay i use an rp for clearing. Btw, have u ever notice that clear requires more psi then base?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 7:57 am
Actually I did notice the need for increased psi for clear. it sounds like my air gun when spraying.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 1:24 pm
It depends on the gun, but increasing or decreasing the pressure can definitely affect the flow of material.
Usually spraying with higher pressure will give you increased control of the material, but can lead to more orange peel.
Think of the air pressure force drying the material and adding "bounce back" to the overspray which dries on the panel in the form of a rough texture or even waves.
RP or conventional guns are definitely easier to use for Clear.
You will have increased overspray, but the control of the finish is easier for most people compared to HVLP (myself included).

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 9:00 pm
The biggest change I made to getting cleaner/glassier finish was to lay my clear coat in multiple thin layers as opposed to heavy layers. For example: My first 2 coats, I leave the car barely moist, with dry spots still. By the 4th coat, it's as wet as I want it to be. I never get fish eye anymore, and I don't even wetsand most of the time. Initially when I started painting, I followed the "lay clear how you want it to look" reasoning, so I sprayed wet always. This isn't proper technique. Not only do you get nasty orange peel, but even after wet sanding the cars will look sort of hazy/flat.



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 9:18 pm
Thin wet coats are required. not heavy wet coats. and not thin dry coats. you might be able to get away with that on a lower end lower solids clear, but try that with low voc and high solids clears and you will be in for a rude awakening. If its taking you 4 coats of clear to get it the way you need it to look, you really need to work on proper gun set up and technique. not to meantion the time and product you are wasting doing it. What guns and clears are you using?



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 9:24 pm
Seriously......... 4 coats of dry spray is not proper technique :rolleyes:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:13 pm
What u need is a 1.8 tip, so that way you'll get the 6 mills in coat. :goodjob:
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 9:18 pm
I mainly use shopline's clear. the mixing ratio is 4:1, i have never thinned out the clear, simply because it just a 4:1 ratio... and also my paint sales lady told me that i shouldn't, but yet some people do. I'm confused....
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