Getting ready to paint for the first time

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 3:08 pm
I have an 88 Mustang I will be doing some body work on. Aside from very minor dents, the car has faded original paint so I want to respray the entire thing. I have a pretty straight hood from a 68 Torino I will be practicing on. I plan on taking some of the hood down to bare metal and applying some filler as needed. (I want to mimic what will be done to the Mustang as closely as possible.)

After trim, door handles, etc, are removed and the car is CLEAN, my plan is to:
1) Sand with P320 (DA, block-sand where needed)
2) High build epoxy primer (something that works DTM and with existing paint/primer)
3) Filler
4) P320 with DA, block-sand where needed
5) Sealer
6) Base coat
7) Clear coat

As simple as that seems, I have a host of questions. First of all, does this list sound right?

About how many coats of primer will I need? Do I "prime-fill-sand-prime-fill-sand-prime", or "prime a couple coats, then fill, then sand, more filler if needed, then prime"?

How many coats of sealer to get a good base for the paint?

For paint, guidelines I have seen usually state something like "2-3 quarts for average sized car, jams included". Pretty clear, but is that 2-3 quarts after its reduced, or is that 2-3 quarts before its mixed?

Next, I'm pretty sure the type of existing paint on the Mustang and on my practice hood are different. Will that make any difference?

Next, the Mustangs original bumper covers and ground effects are polyurethane. Do I have to use anything special (additives, etc.)? Lastly, if it matters, I live in CA, so everything I get will have to be water-borne.

Thanks
Jon



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 3:46 pm
I am in the exact same boat, about to paint an early 90's Nissan with OEM paint and a few dents/dings so I look forward to the follow-up on your thread here.

I just assumed I was going to sand the dented areas down to bare metal first then use filler directly on the bare metal, then primer on top of that. Anyway, just out of curiosity and not that I know any better, but what is the logic behind primer first then doing the body work on top of the primer? Wouldn't you need to scuff up the primer to such an extent for filler adhesion purposes that you'd be into bare metal anyway on the dents/dings?



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 9:49 pm
james92se wrote:I am in the exact same boat, about to paint an early 90's Nissan with OEM paint and a few dents/dings so I look forward to the follow-up on your thread here.


I read your thread, but didn't want to hijack it, so I started a new one. As far as filler then primer, or primer then filler, I look forward to someone with experience to fill us in...



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:55 pm
Still no guidance. Maybe every one is tired of seeing these threads?

I read vwbobby's sticky and it has a lot of good info. I guess I just want to make sure I'm on the right track before I spend $550 on materials/supplies. I guess I could ask the paint store salesman what he thinks I need, but I would rather get an idea ahead of time from someone who is not trying to sell me anything...

At any rate, I'll take the car to a cheap place around here and get a quote. Maybe if I can do all the prep and body work and only have them spray the primer and paint, it will come out decent. Any thoughts?



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 6:13 pm
The instructions at the start of the forums are excellent advice.

As for the rest of your questions you will get answers that are contradictory. Some do not apply filler to bare metal while others insist filler on bare metal is the only way.

I fall on the side putting filler over primer but then I don't use enough filler to be an authority. My preference is to work the metal until it is smooth enough for high build primer. For the dents I can't get to both sides to really get it smooth I use lead and of course that is on bare metal.

A production environment has to use filler to survive in that market. But most of the people visiting this forum are not in that category. They have plenty of time, not so much money, and not nearly enough patience.
Gale Gorman
Houston

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:35 pm
After trim, door handles, etc, are removed and the car is CLEAN, my plan is to:
1) Sand with P320 (DA, block-sand where needed)
2) High build epoxy primer (something that works DTM and with existing paint/primer)
3) Filler
4) P320 with DA, block-sand where needed
5) Sealer
6) Base coat
7) Clear coat


You say the paint is "faded" and that would give me cause to ask if the clear coat is peeling, flaking or worn through in spots?
If the answer is yes then you will need to sand to the primer or bare metal.
P320 will not do a very good job of stripping paint off the car. I would use 80 grit if that is your intention.

Once the car is stripped you will need to clean it well and wipe down with Wax and Grease remover (wipe/spray on, wipe off before it dries, while wearing gloves).
Apply at least two coats of epoxy primer making sure to follow flash time recommendations.

At this point you need to determine how much body work needs to be done. I like to block sand the epoxy lightly with 150 - 180 grit as this will dull the finish and all the low spots will still be shiny.

A DA isn't going to get your panels straight. For that you need to block sand or use and inline sander. The coarser grits will get your panels straighter and do it faster. The key is not to press real hard on the sanding blocks and let the sandpaper do the cutting. I will use 80 grit to get it straight, re-skim with filler extending well past the repair and then feather it in with 220 on a sanding block.

Once your filler work is done it is best to shoot another coat of epoxy to seal the filler. Wait the required time for re-coating and then shoot 3 coats of your high build primer. (Critical to wait the whole amount of the flash time or longer.)

There are sticky posts dealing guide coating and other important steps to getting the car ready to paint.
Guide coat will get the car super straight if you use it properly.

At this stage I like to seal with a reduced coat of epoxy primer but sealing is not necessary.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 6:54 am
as above, BUT its really hard to give advice on wat is needed when you cant SEE wat is needed to be done, start up a project thread, put up some pics and the good ppl of the forum will indeed help out!!
krem

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