Hi, I’m a first-time painter (more or less), and I need some help. I found a lot of helpful info in the "Paint Technology" article on here by Brian Martin, but I'm left with a few questions still.

I’m restoring an old ford truck and I have some questions about priming.

First a little background so that you understand my situation.
I’m going to have the cab media blasted (at an autobody blasting specialist shop), then I would like to lay down etch primer, 2k urethane primer, and 2k bc/cc. The thing is, I won’t have time to final-paint the rig this summer, so I’m looking at doing it next spring. I would however like to lay down my etch primer and the first coat of urethane primer on the cab, and then bc/cc the interior and jambs now. That way I can spend the fall/winter installing wiring, dash, steering, etc. on the interior. Otherwise I won’t have anything to do until next summer and I’ll fall behind schedule. The exterior of the cab will sit in primer during this time. Is that ok?

My other question is, can I do my filler work on top of the first layer of urethane, with subsequent coats on top, or does the filler need to go on bare steel? My thought is that life would be much easier if I can go straight from the blasters to the paint booth just to get it in the first layer of primer asap and worry about the bodywork later. I’m doing the filler work at home, but I’m doing the paint work at a paint booth rental place 20 minutes away, so I’m just trying to cut down on hauling the cab back and forth on my flatbed trailer in the elements (this is also why I have to do everything in the summer, I live in Washington).
Also, do I need to do all coats of urethane primer in fairly close succession, or can I do one coat now and the rest in the spring? I know epoxy has a narrow recoat window, but I don’t know about urethane. If I have to do all the primer at once, is there a different recoat window to put the bc/cc on top of the primer? In other words, can I complete the priming now and wait on the bc/cc until spring?

During the winter the truck will sit in my garage which is insulated and heated and for some reason things just don’t rust in there.

I know that’s a lot, thanks for your help!

bryanmartin wrote:Hi, I’m a first-time painter (more or less), and I need some help. I found a lot of helpful info in the "Paint Technology" article on here by Brian Martin, but I'm left with a few questions still.

I’m restoring an old ford truck and I have some questions about priming.

First a little background so that you understand my situation.
I’m going to have the cab media blasted (at an autobody blasting specialist shop), then I would like to lay down etch primer, 2k urethane primer, and 2k bc/cc. The thing is, I won’t have time to final-paint the rig this summer, so I’m looking at doing it next spring. I would however like to lay down my etch primer and the first coat of urethane primer on the cab, and then bc/cc the interior and jambs now. That way I can spend the fall/winter installing wiring, dash, steering, etc. on the interior. Otherwise I won’t have anything to do until next summer and I’ll fall behind schedule. The exterior of the cab will sit in primer during this time. Is that ok?

Not really. 2k primer over etch will be an invitation to absorb contaminants and moisture.

My other question is, can I do my filler work on top of the first layer of urethane, with subsequent coats on top, or does the filler need to go on bare steel? My thought is that life would be much easier if I can go straight from the blasters to the paint booth just to get it in the first layer of primer asap and worry about the bodywork later. I’m doing the filler work at home, but I’m doing the paint work at a paint booth rental place 20 minutes away, so I’m just trying to cut down on hauling the cab back and forth on my flatbed trailer in the elements (this is also why I have to do everything in the summer, I live in Washington).
Also, do I need to do all coats of urethane primer in fairly close succession, or can I do one coat now and the rest in the spring? I know epoxy has a narrow recoat window, but I don’t know about urethane. If I have to do all the primer at once, is there a different recoat window to put the bc/cc on top of the primer? In other words, can I complete the priming now and wait on the bc/cc until spring?

During the winter the truck will sit in my garage which is insulated and heated and for some reason things just don’t rust in there.

I know that’s a lot, thanks for your help!

Your best bet for restoration work is Epoxy Primer.
Shoot two coats on your freshly media blasted metal inside and out.
Let cure overnight and then you can do your filler work right over top of the epoxy.
The epoxy will protect your metal from rust for years if it takes that long for you to get it painted.
Once filler work is done, assuming you are outside your re-coat window, simply scuff the epoxy with red scotchbrite and then shoot another coat to seal the filler and cover any sand throughs.

If you decide to do the 2k primer and wait until next year, just be sure to seal it with epoxy primer before letting it sit.
When it comes time to paint you can wet sand the epoxy with 600 and be ready to shoot your color.
Read the sticky posts on how to prep for paint and using guide coat for a more complete explanation of the procedures.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:

bryanmartin wrote:Hi, I’m a first-time painter (more or less), and I need some help. I found a lot of helpful info in the "Paint Technology" article on here by Brian Martin, but I'm left with a few questions still.

I’m restoring an old ford truck and I have some questions about priming.

First a little background so that you understand my situation.
I’m going to have the cab media blasted (at an autobody blasting specialist shop), then I would like to lay down etch primer, 2k urethane primer, and 2k bc/cc. The thing is, I won’t have time to final-paint the rig this summer, so I’m looking at doing it next spring. I would however like to lay down my etch primer and the first coat of urethane primer on the cab, and then bc/cc the interior and jambs now. That way I can spend the fall/winter installing wiring, dash, steering, etc. on the interior. Otherwise I won’t have anything to do until next summer and I’ll fall behind schedule. The exterior of the cab will sit in primer during this time. Is that ok?

Not really. 2k primer over etch will be an invitation to absorb contaminants and moisture.

My other question is, can I do my filler work on top of the first layer of urethane, with subsequent coats on top, or does the filler need to go on bare steel? My thought is that life would be much easier if I can go straight from the blasters to the paint booth just to get it in the first layer of primer asap and worry about the bodywork later. I’m doing the filler work at home, but I’m doing the paint work at a paint booth rental place 20 minutes away, so I’m just trying to cut down on hauling the cab back and forth on my flatbed trailer in the elements (this is also why I have to do everything in the summer, I live in Washington).
Also, do I need to do all coats of urethane primer in fairly close succession, or can I do one coat now and the rest in the spring? I know epoxy has a narrow recoat window, but I don’t know about urethane. If I have to do all the primer at once, is there a different recoat window to put the bc/cc on top of the primer? In other words, can I complete the priming now and wait on the bc/cc until spring?

During the winter the truck will sit in my garage which is insulated and heated and for some reason things just don’t rust in there.

I know that’s a lot, thanks for your help!

Your best bet for restoration work is Epoxy Primer.
Shoot two coats on your freshly media blasted metal inside and out.
Let cure overnight and then you can do your filler work right over top of the epoxy.
The epoxy will protect your metal from rust for years if it takes that long for you to get it painted.
Once filler work is done, assuming you are outside your re-coat window, simply scuff the epoxy with red scotchbrite and then shoot another coat to seal the filler and cover any sand throughs.

If you decide to do the 2k primer and wait until next year, just be sure to seal it with epoxy primer before letting it sit.
When it comes time to paint you can wet sand the epoxy with 600 and be ready to shoot your color.
Read the sticky posts on how to prep for paint and using guide coat for a more complete explanation of the procedures.

Thank you for your detailed response. So if I understand you correctly if I do epoxy only, I can scuff with a red pad, but if I do epoxy over urethane I have to wet sand with 600? I wanted to stay away from epoxy because I want to block sand the whole thing to make it straight. From what I understand you really can't do this with epoxy as it sands like bubble gum, is this correct? How do I block it straight if I'm using epoxy?

The epoxy is the base primer that seals and protects the metal providing you with a good foundation upon which to spray your 2k build primer. The 2k build primer is what will absorb the contaminants and moisture if left exposed for long periods of time.
Epoxy when cured sands just fine however it does not provide much build.
The 2k build primer will need to be sprayed over the epoxy. Three coats is good to start with but be sure to let it flash properly between coats. You then want to apply guide coat and block sand with a coarse grit to remove the guide coat. This is what gets the panels straight.

Here's a simple outline:
1. Spray two coat of epoxy to seal bare metal and any remaining factory primer. (I use black for this)
2. Next day shoot 3 coats of 2k primer and let cure.
3. Block sand with 80 grit pressing just hard enough to make contact with the panel but not too hard so you flex the metal. You should begin seeing the black epoxy primer in places as the panel gets straighter.
4. Next day shoot 2-3 coats of 2k primer and let cure.
5. Apply guide coat and block sand with 180 grit until guide coat is gone or you begin to see the black epoxy layer.
6. Next day shoot 2 coats of 2k primer and let cure.
7. Apply guide coat and block sand with 320 - 400 grit just until guide coat is gone.

Panels should be very straight at this point. Now you can wet sand with 600 and be ready for base OR you can shoot a sealer coat of epoxy primer (reduced 1:1:1) and let the car sit until you are ready to paint it. When ready simply wet sand the epoxy sealer coat with 600, wipe it down and you are ready for paint.

It is a lot of work and steps but if you want the car really straight this will get it there. Of course if it shapes up nice after the first round of 2k you can skips steps 4 and 5.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:The epoxy is the base primer that seals and protects the metal providing you with a good foundation upon which to spray your 2k build primer. The 2k build primer is what will absorb the contaminants and moisture if left exposed for long periods of time.
Epoxy when cured sands just fine however it does not provide much build.
The 2k build primer will need to be sprayed over the epoxy. Three coats is good to start with but be sure to let it flash properly between coats. You then want to apply guide coat and block sand with a coarse grit to remove the guide coat. This is what gets the panels straight.

Here's a simple outline:
1. Spray two coat of epoxy to seal bare metal and any remaining factory primer. (I use black for this)
2. Next day shoot 3 coats of 2k primer and let cure.
3. Block sand with 80 grit pressing just hard enough to make contact with the panel but not too hard so you flex the metal. You should begin seeing the black epoxy primer in places as the panel gets straighter.
4. Next day shoot 2-3 coats of 2k primer and let cure.
5. Apply guide coat and block sand with 180 grit until guide coat is gone or you begin to see the black epoxy layer.
6. Next day shoot 2 coats of 2k primer and let cure.
7. Apply guide coat and block sand with 320 - 400 grit just until guide coat is gone.

Panels should be very straight at this point. Now you can wet sand with 600 and be ready for base OR you can shoot a sealer coat of epoxy primer (reduced 1:1:1) and let the car sit until you are ready to paint it. When ready simply wet sand the epoxy sealer coat with 600, wipe it down and you are ready for paint.

It is a lot of work and steps but if you want the car really straight this will get it there. Of course if it shapes up nice after the first round of 2k you can skips steps 4 and 5.

You are awesome, thank you!