Hello. I'm sanding my resto to 600 to get it ready for paint. Plan is to paint it with single stage torch red. Will red cover these spots or do I need to cover them with more primer? Does the rattle can urethane primer work good for small spots if I need to cover them? Thanks for all the help.

Forgot to mention-the lighter spots are epoxy and the dark is from the black coating from replacement panels. No bare metal showing.

I would spray the car with sealer before the paint. Always better to be safe then sorry.

The answer is "it depends". Some reds will cover great and some are fairly translucent. Most guys will tell you that if you have good coverage it won't matter but with a SS paint I think I'd like to have the underlying surfaces all consistent, to make sure I won't have an issue with any darker spots showing through. The urethane 2K primers in an activated aerosol can are good (expensive, but good).

Looking at the pics, depending on how much build you have on that surrounding epoxy primer you might have a high (or low) spot where you sanded through, so another reason to hit it with primer and block it.

element94 wrote:Forgot to mention-the lighter spots are epoxy and the dark is from the black coating from replacement panels. No bare metal showing.

I remove all the EDP when doing restos. EDP is only left when doing collision work provided it is true EDP.

I'll presume you are not going to strip it now so just spot in the dark areas with primer and resand. There is nothing wrong with shooting over sanded 2K primer and not using sealer. Just make sure there are no sand throughs to bare metal on the edges. I generally seal all jobs this reason and to have an even value. Hopefully you chose a quality paint and not garbage.

Thanks for the feedback. Im going to spray it with Valspar 840 series paint as an FYI.

I will spot prime and block again to be safe. I've been debating wether to seal it or not. My paint supply store can mix a white sealer before I lay down my red. Being a novice painter, this scares me some as I'm not sure I can lay all the white down and clean the gun before the red.

element94 wrote: Being a novice painter, this scares me some as I'm not sure I can lay all the white down and clean the gun before the red.

Why not? It only takes a few minutes to seal the car. You have flash times for sealer. Read your TDS. Being a novice you should have asked a pro for advice. That way you would have not left the EDP on either. At full coverage (opaque) the color of the sealer won't make a difference.

Scott - im aware of the flash time and I'm going back and forth about sealing. I probably will do it.

On the advice of the panel and epoxy manufacturers I left the EPD coating on. This is a moot point as I made the decision to leave it on. There is nothing I can do about it now. This thread is not about that either. And if I knew a "pro" painter I wouldn't be posting on this site. Any local body shops have been no help at all. Also - some research I've done on the inter-web seems to point to a white sealer to help the red I'm painting pop. If it doesn't matter than great. I will use the recommended sealer by Valspar.

Thanks for the feedback though.

I would use the white sealer. It will make the red pop. I use white under some reds,yellows,oranges,blues, and even some greens. If you're curious about it working, spray some white sealer on a piece of scrap on one side. The other side just 2k. Then paint it. That will give you an answer.

element94 wrote: On the advice of the panel and epoxy manufacturers I left the EPD coating on.

No worries but their info was wrong. I've seen corrosion under repro EDP and so have other resto shops. The last thing I'm going to do is trust a repro panel company or the epoxy paint company's advice on an expensive resto. How does the epoxy manufacturer know the quality control on a part in which they had no involvement? I guarantee my work, not that of another.

As far as sealer influencing the color; it only has an effect depending on the paint's translucency. Fully opaque colors dont care what's under it. If you dive into color matching on factory jobs you will have to learn valueshades that affect color. Another topic altogether.