How about this? I've got over $550 in just clear, $341 a gallon plus 2qts today at $180. My main concern is the sides. Anybody se anything wrong with 2 coats all over then 1 more on the quarters, doors, and fenders? That will give some extra to get really flat. When I get out the military, I'm going to school to learn how to do this with all the tricks of the trade.

You will end up with a dry edge at hood and sail panels, but if you are willing to sand and buff it all out, then technically there won't be a problem.

You might have better success if you put the extra coat on those areas first.
Then shoot your overall coats.

That makes perfect sense. Thanks!!!

chris wrote:You will end up with a dry edge at hood and sail panels, but if you are willing to sand and buff it all out, then technically there won't be a problem.

Could you tell me what this means?

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:You might have better success if you put the extra coat on those areas first.
Then shoot your overall coats.

Could you clarify what you mean here?

(see sig line)

Sure. When spraying clear you want to keep a good wet edge - so if you are painting the entire car you usually end either up at the top of the roof, or down at the bottom of the rockers and you have put your final gun pass down along what was an open wet edge.

If you stop at the top of the doors and the top of the fenders for some reason, there's a chance that the overspray from where you stopped will end up on part of the car (the hood for example) that had already dried to the point where the overspray won't melt in -- so you could have a dry edge of paint there. Bumpy, grainy, textured finish in your clear, due to that overspray.

Jim's suggestion that the OP first clear the sides of the car, then go back and over-clear the entire car, is a good suggestion because it would minimize the chance of that.

Wet sand with 600 on a paint paddle to flatten it out. Clean and reclear