hey ppls, I have a problem, I recently bought a new gun, devilbiss gti prolite 1.3 with the t10 air cap.
I have never used a low pressure gun before so i know i should have gave it a test run on a test panel, but i thought, what the hek, couldn't b that different!!
well, i painted my ke20 shell and had a few issues with lights, power outage and the lid blocking up on the gun, anyways, ive seen ppl use this gun but with the t20 and hvlp caps and they seem to move the gun quite swiftly and yet get a nice smooth finish, mine came out quite dry and very peely, to the extent i have had to remove nearly all the paint to get it smooth enough to buff, so im gonna reshoot it.
previously with my old sata, i would be spraying at 4bar with the fluid right open and lay the paint on nice and wet, it would look peely but then flow out nice and smooth, i thought with a nice new gun and seeing clips of others using it, i would be able to spray a lot faster!!
my question is, the t10 cap on my gun has the lowest air flow of the 3 caps available, so less airflow means less pain being drawn thru the gun?? meaning i would have to slow down my painting compared to the clips i have seen with others using the higher flowing air caps, i did try to reduce the pressure to get the paint on wetter but it just splattered out, (paint was white 2k mixed 2:1 + 15%), i ended up spraying with the recommended (for the gun) 2bar,
i will be doing a test oanel 1st this time, but wanted a some advice to try 1st so i didn't waste the paint i have to test (again 2k but different color)
chees for the help
krem

A typical HVLP gun sprays best between the manufacture's suggested pressure range up to around 10 PSI higher. In your case, it would probably spray best around 29-39PSI.

This gun has 3 available air caps. One is HVLP and the other 2 are "high efficiency"....So I will assume that is closer to an LVLP type setup.
The TE10 cap has the lowest CFM of air flow, so it will spray the slowest. You will need to slow down your travel, and probably move up closer to the panel. With my LVLP guns I really have to lay the material on wet and close to the panel. RP and HVLP are easier to spray with for me. The "problem" with RP and HVLP is the larger amount of overspray cloud/wasted material, compared to LVLP. This is why it might be a little more cost effective to use a LVLP type setup for cost savings on materials, at the expense of your frustration getting the gun dialed in.

I have not used this gun personally, hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.

thanks for your input, I really appreciate it, I could have paid a fw extra $$ for a te20 cap but it uses nearly 100lp more than the te10 and I doubt my compressor would keep up over a whole pot of paint, it might but I didn't really have the extra $$ anyways,i will do a test panel this weekend and have more of a play, white (which I tried to paint with new gun 1st) prob aint the best color to dial in a gun as its hard to see how wet its going on, test panel will be red so will be good!!
im thinking of getting a big gas bottle that's out of date and converting it to a 2nd inline tank, this will enable me a lot more air time and then I might look at getting a bigger flowing cap (or maybe just get used to this 1!!)
krem

White is a little hard to see, especially when you are trying to dial everything in...
If you need some material to play with, you can just buy some cheap enamel or lacquer for around $8 - 10 at a hardware or paint store. I thin it around 100 - 200% with the appropriate type of thinner.

If you want to use some automotive paint, your local paint jobber might have a few mismatched or overstock paint tins laying around for a few $$. I used to buy all kinds of colors for between $10 - 30, for a quart or less.

yeah I have some lacquer and also some red 2k, since I don't plan on using lacquer much anymore I will just use the 2k to dial it in, I do have some base but not much clear,
krem