Paint Crinkle

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:11 pm
I had a hell of a time spraying single stage urethane paint and clear coat in 70 - 75F weather this year. It was dry spraying in certain areas or flashing off way too quickly with medium temp reducer or activator. Going to a higher temp reducer and activator is a quick and easy fix. I tried moving the projects into the sun (no wind) and it was even worse.

Otherwise you can try spraying your coats a lot wetter, but you run the risk of solvent pop and/or dieback. You don't want to spray your basecoat wet however. You could also try spraying later at night when the weather is cooler and less humid.



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:35 pm
The color is done. I'm happy with it.
The clear is either rough at transition from top to sides or it runs.
What will happen if I reduce the clear more than 10%?

Thanks,
Ray

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 3:23 am
Not a good idea, but you can use up to 20% with some clears. Some clears will lose gloss or have paint dieback and shrinkage. It's always best to error on the side of 0 - 10% reducer to eliminate those problems.



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 12:29 pm
Ok thank you.
They say don't thin more than 10%.
I just wanted to know why.



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 8:50 am
If you're using nason clear too, I just had problems with the 498-00 on a small car dryin too fast so when doin a complete on a dodge 3500, I did it in sections even tho the clear is an overall clear, I didn't wanna risk it. I used mid temp activator and sprayed it like a spot clear in sections masking up the primed and previously painted sections as I went



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 2:09 pm
DeviousDesigns wrote:If you're using nason clear too, I just had problems with the 498-00 on a small car dryin too fast so when doin a complete on a dodge 3500, I did it in sections even tho the clear is an overall clear, I didn't wanna risk it. I used mid temp activator and sprayed it like a spot clear in sections masking up the primed and previously painted sections as I went


I was able to do that with hood, fenders, & doors. But I just can't move fast enough to cover roof, quarters, trunk, & rear panel. I end up with a dry line down center of roof & trunk when I do 1 side, or dry lines along top of quarters when I do roof & trunk first.
Should I change clear?



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 10:37 am
U could try another clear but you could run into the same problem, in the nason line I don't have a recommendation for ya, I kno they have a few clears labeled as "overall" but I haven't used any but the 498-00. When I said I did it in sections I meant I sprayed the roof alone, let it cure a couple days, mask it off with the rest of the cab, then did the bed sides, let em cure, mask everything again, sprayed driver door, extended cab, and fender, let it cure, did the same on oppisite side. And I removed the hood and tailgate and did them seperate. It took me about a week to paint the truck if not longer but the clear I had was what I was using and that's how I got it to work best. It also eliminates silly problems like leanin into wet paint or hittin somethin with the air hose. Cuz u don't have to concentrate on as much of an area. It turned out great but that clear just wouldn't work right without dry spray if I tried to stretch it more than 3 panels.
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