opps I forgot to look on the spec sheet. I found it, I noticed on the spec sheet for the paint it says to shoot with 8 – 10 PSI at the cap for HVLP guns. Stupid question I have a gauge on my gun where the air hose connects. How do I set it for a 10 psi at the cap? HVLP gun

It requires a special guage that screws onto the gun in place of the air cap, and 99% of painters don't use one.
Set your gun to the "inlet pressure" specified by the gun manufacture. It is usually around 30PSI for an HVLP gun. If the gun came with a regulator, some have a green zone for a good starting point for adjustment.

you can set it at the compressor reg, simply watch the reg when you pull the trigger on the gun, it will drop, this is reasonably close to wat the pressure should be at the gun, within a few psi, good enough for a basic job
don't rush your prep work, this is the killer of good paint, if you need to put off the job for a day or week, then so be it, it will be well worth the wait!!
I have found that epoxy is super hard to sand, so now when I use it where there is no filler work I let it flash off and then put some sanding primer over the top, saves hrs or sanding in the long run!!
krem

Krem,

Yes the epoxy is a PITA to sand. Before reading this post I went to buy a sandable primer. I hope that helps me! When you applied the sanding primer over the epoxy what grit did you sand with and wet or dry? And was that your final sanding before applying base?

summit brand epoxy sands super easy and I have read ********** epoxy is the same way, but havent used it. Love me some epoxy primer...

coreydmc wrote:Krem,

Yes the epoxy is a PITA to sand. Before reading this post I went to buy a sandable primer. I hope that helps me! When you applied the sanding primer over the epoxy what grit did you sand with and wet or dry? And was that your final sanding before applying base?

with my ke20 build (I have a thread on here in projects if you wanna check it out), I sealed the whole car in epoxy, then hit it with 80g and did all my filler work over the top, final sanding the filler with 120-180, then applied a skim coat of fine polyester filler and final sanded with 240, I then over reduced some more epoxy so it laid down nice and flat and sealed up the whole lot again, let it flash for around 45mins, and then applied 2 coats of sanding primer,
if there is not filler work required, I would finish off my metal prep with say 180 on the orbital sander, then a coat of epoxy, prob a little more reducer than normal to minimise orange peel, let it flash for 45-60mins, then 2-3 coats of your 2k sanding primer, then with your final sand wit wet and dry, depends on your topcoat, 600wet for 2k solids or 800wet for basecoats, but I like to precut the primer with 240 - 320 till its smooth and your guide coat is all gone, then reapply more guide coat and take out the sand scratches with your final sand, make sure you use a nice firm block and plenty of clean water, add some car wash to your water, helps stop paper from clogging and washes as you sand!!
krem

If I need an epoxy that sands well, I use the Kirker Enduro epoxy. It's cheap and works well. Its not as flexible as ********** epoxy, so I wouldn't use it on a lot of plastic, but it is fine for metal. It sands nicely with P180 dry or you can use P220 - P600 wet. Wet sanding generally works better with most primers, just more mess.