Finishing putty on 2k primer

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:04 am
Hi guys,

First round of blocking with 180, I found a couple of low spots that needed attention. I didn't want to pile on the expensive 2k unnecessarily if the low spots could be fixed with a putty product first to minimize material wastage. I was also not confident that the low spots will get sufficiently filled with another couple coats of 2k High fill.
So I applied very thin amounts of Evercoat finishing putty (Easy Sand) over the sanded and cleaned 2k primer in the low spots.

Now I know that this is not an ideal practice, but I'm just hoping someone out there can give me some reassurance. :worthy:
Otherwise I would be so paranoid of failure that I will have to cut it all back and apply over the epoxy/ metal.

Some things to note.
Obviously with the first round of blocking I tried to remove all the 2k, so the surrounding areas of the low spots were either bare metal, Rage Gold or Epoxy (preferred substrates).

The large areas of broken through metal, filler and also the areas where I did apply finishing putty over the low spots will get a quick coat of epoxy before applying more high build (will this be my saving grace? :P )

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:06 pm
Not being a smart ****, but isn't that what finishing putty is for? I'd say you're good to go



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:20 pm
I thought it was mainly for skim coating over your normal filler once you finished up the sanding to cover any pinholes / scratches.
I'm pretty sure I asked my auto paints store and they said it should be fine (months and months ago) - but I saw a few threads on the topic and then thought "****" - hope I haven't made a mistake

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:18 pm
I think I may have confused finishing putty with glazing putty or "icing" as some call it, I seriously doubt it will cause you any problems. Most of the time these products are pretty forgiving, thats my very limited experience anyhow.

When Im working on one, I try to keep a hands off approach with everything, keeping everything as clean as possible so I wont have funky fisheye problems and also not spraying coats too heavy or too fast after the last coat...its worked for me so far



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:20 pm
Thanks for your input Andy.. and yes.. i'm also very proactive about being super clean and importantly - patient when it comes to laying material on the panels.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:51 pm
The Evercoat Easy Sand is a 2k polyester based product so you should be fine.
The 1k glazing putties are the ones that cause most of the problems.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:00 pm
Thanks for your input.

Just for educational purposes.. what are some of the common problems you run into when using a 1k glazing putty (especially over a 2k urethane)? Catalyzed and non catalyzed product incompatibility ie. edge mapping, adhesion loss?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:45 pm
Thats a cool little car, reminds me of the early Vegas we had here in the US



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:55 am
Thanks matey, yeah you would be right, the equivalent would be the Chevy Vega.
Here in Australia it's a Holden Torana. Mines the last of the run, called a UC (considered ugly because of its tailights). I bought mine with a massive wallop in the back quarter, fixed that, and while I was at it I converted the rear tailight section to one of the model before it (the LX torana).
So it's a bit of a hybrid mongrel.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:51 am
2k means two components or more appropriately a chemically catalyzed curing process.
1k is one component and relies on solvent evaporation to cure. These products can generally be removed by using a solvent like lacquer thinner while 2k products are more solvent resistant.

This is why many will activate their base coat. Makes it less prone to wrinkling if a repair is necessary.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31
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