prepping for vinyl wrap

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:48 am
Good day to all.

I understand this is a autobody forum and this may or may not be the best place for me to ask about vinyl wrap. I am in the process of restoring and fixing my car and am planning on vinyl wrapping it. From what I have read and researched the vinyl shows the same if not more imperfections than paint does, so I have a few areas I need to fix. The car in question is a mazda 3 sedan with some bumps and scrapes. There are 3 trouble areas with no more than 3/8"-1/2" deep dents or creases. Are these to deep to fill with a body filler? Also considering I am vinyl wrapping what would be a good primer after I fill and finish those dents? There are also small gouges in the finish that would need to be filled, should I use a a glaze to fix those or body filler as well?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
TIA

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:27 pm
I've done some wrapping for accents, accessories, nose protectors, etc. Every time I've learned a few things. Yes, you are correct, good wrap applied right will show every defect. The surface needs to be clean and level and here's a kicker that most guys don't consider.... If you've done body/paint work it better be fairly cured or gas will bubble your wrap, maybe not right away but get a good spring/summer sun on it and out comes more gas..... That reason alone is a great reason to work your metal straighter to get more like just 1/8" or less of a fill surface rather than that 3/8ths or 1/2 inch depth. Pounding out to the 1/8 would allow you to indeed use a body icing on everything that is a lot easier to sand and feather. As for primer epoxy primer is going to be more stable and seal your fillers. Try to not rush your fill work and give a few days to a week to "gas off", then seal with epoxy, and again give it at a least a week or so before trying your wrap.
And the major downside to all of this.... That wrap is going to bond itself to all of your repair work.... pull the wrap and I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't pull everything up right down to the metal.
If you are going to wrap a whole car you better buy some extra wrap and practice, practice, practice. Also look up "knifeless tape" on Youtube. Couldn't imagine doing a car without it. Also check out the 3M vynil primer that's used in some critical areas for application. Multi-temp heat guns are handy too.
MY DISCLAIMER... I am no pro at this stuff and am learning just like you..... It's not rocket science however it is just like everything else we do here... IT is an acquired skill.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 3:46 pm
Thank you for the very detailed reply. I have done more research and now feel as though I should paint my car. Problem is I don't want to pay a ridiculous amount for someone to do it. I am now doing more research on painting cars. Sure it may now be a great professional job but my car is not nor will be a show car. It is more or less so it look halfway decent driving down the road. So I will be doing more research on here and most likely have some more questions here soon. Like here is one, how long does outgassing last on body filler? Like say I go thru and fix and fill all my small dents and dings, how long should I wait to paint? My car is currently a dark silver kind of light grey (mazda 29y titanium grey paint) and I would like to stay somewhere close to that so I don't have different color door jams and engine bay..

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 6:13 pm
Okay, so you're changing directions. If you are going to paint the car usually by the time you done all your fill work and got it shaped, feathered, etc., it's done it's off gassing so you should be good to go. Personally I like for fill work to set for a week before moving into the primer/paint systems but I'm just a hobbyists so I'm not doing production work. Sounds like a newer car so you probably aren't going down to metal with everything, well, unless you've got some chipping, peeling, etc., going on....
Just remember something on switching from your original plan.... you'll spend $1000 to $2000 pretty easily with tools, supplies, etc., no matter how cheaply you go with stuff. There really is no such thing as a "cheap" paint job anymore....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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