wahoo wrote:I never thought of needing explosion proof lights and fans? What about the air compressor pressure switch, that thing should spark when the contacts make?

I plan to paint my car in my garage at home, I was planning to buy some cheap fans to put at the back door to suck out the fumes and an air filter at the front screen door to suck fresh air.

Where do the fumes go, do they rise or fall? My unit heater hangs at the top of the ceiling in the corner i imagine it will be pretty warm above it. Warmer then my lights will get at least.

Those contact switches will definitely spark. I'd make sure it is outside the booth. My compressors are outside of my workshop, but if they were inside, I'd at least wrap the switches with plastic and tape up tightly. I also wouldn't turn on any heaters until the overspray is cleared out.

I think the biggest thing is having enough ventilation to move the overspray out quickly. When I sprayed my truck, I had a good breeze coming in through my filters. When I sprayed the base coat, I had virtually no overspray hanging in the air. However, when I sprayed the clear, I was surprised how much overspray it produced. It still cleared out quickly, however.

But, it is better to have an explosion proof fan AND lights so you aren't the one in a million guy who kills himself. Here's a link to a cool DIY explosion proof fan.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCarsty1JBE

Here's mine...just call me "Mr.Safety"... crack the garage door open the window, works fine, *DISCLAIMER* not a recommendation just sharing. Would I feel safe in a giant cloud of overspray? Definitely not! My gun doesn't produce much and I'm a slow painter

Here is mine. Notice the 1400 CFM attic ventilator in the window. I have another permanently installed ventilator in my upstairs finishing room that pulls air in from the downstairs, so I've got a total of 2800 CFM.

Intake filters are on the opposite side.

Again, I felt comfortable painting in this booth because the overspray cleared out pretty quickly and the motors are brushless. But you know the legal disclaimer...

So a belt driven fan is better because the fumes are not pulled across the motor, now I feel like most electric motors are brushless, what is so special about an explosion proof fan, like what's the difference.

wahoo wrote:So a belt driven fan is better because the fumes are not pulled across the motor, now I feel like most electric motors are brushless, what is so special about an explosion proof fan, like what's the difference.

I think the motors are sealed and probably aluminum blades.

natemoore wrote:

wahoo wrote:So a belt driven fan is better because the fumes are not pulled across the motor, now I feel like most electric motors are brushless, what is so special about an explosion proof fan, like what's the difference.

I think the motors are sealed and probably aluminum blades.

I don't know how other people's setups are but I didn't think having my compressor in my garage would be a problem. I know my compressor motor isn't some special sealed explosion proof motor.

I don't know what else i can do to make my setup right that's fessible for a home do it yourself er.

wahoo wrote:

natemoore wrote:

wahoo wrote:So a belt driven fan is better because the fumes are not pulled across the motor, now I feel like most electric motors are brushless, what is so special about an explosion proof fan, like what's the difference.

I think the motors are sealed and probably aluminum blades.

I don't know how other people's setups are but I didn't think having my compressor in my garage would be a problem. I know my compressor motor isn't some special sealed explosion proof motor.

I don't know what else i can do to make my setup right that's fessible for a home do it yourself er.

You may just have to paint with no ventilation then open the doors and windows and let it air out. I still had dust in my clear despite the great lengths I went to to have a decent paint booth. I think most DIYers are going to have that.

Sparking compressor contactor switch...that would worry me. Maybe locate the compressor outside if possible?

natemoore wrote:

wahoo wrote:

natemoore wrote:

wahoo wrote:So a belt driven fan is better because the fumes are not pulled across the motor, now I feel like most electric motors are brushless, what is so special about an explosion proof fan, like what's the difference.

I think the motors are sealed and probably aluminum blades.

I don't know how other people's setups are but I didn't think having my compressor in my garage would be a problem. I know my compressor motor isn't some special sealed explosion proof motor.

I don't know what else i can do to make my setup right that's fessible for a home do it yourself er.

You may just have to paint with no ventilation then open the doors and windows and let it air out. I still had dust in my clear despite the great lengths I went to to have a decent paint booth. I think most DIYers are going to have that.

Sparking compressor contactor switch...that would worry me. Maybe locate the compressor outside if possible?

All my piping is mounted on the wall next to it. I spoke with a co worker who has painted for 30 years. He said it's not that flammable just to use a furnace blower with duct work. I'll probably at least get a cover for my air compressor pressure switch so the contacts aren't exposed.

i was thinking this hung high on my ceiling rafters pumping out the wall and piping down to the booth.http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON- ... ?$smthumb$

mudrat wrote:i was thinking this hung high on my ceiling rafters pumping out the wall and piping down to the booth.http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON- ... ?$smthumb$

Are you going to get a used one? If you're going to spend $525 for 1600 CFM, you're not that far away from a much higher CFM explosion proof fan.

http://www.industrialfansdirect.com/IND-FA-HL-P/LFI-P24-4.html