painting outside in the northwest at 50 degrees-Questions

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 2:15 pm
Newbie here with some questions.
Using Martin Senour Crossfire Urethane Enamel with CH253 hardener and CR732 cool temp reducer painted over a epoxy primer sealer.
The raw sand blasted cast iron parts I'll be painting are kept in my small office which is kept heated to 70 degrees.
I want to wheel them (heavy) outside when the air temp is at least 50 degrees, spray, and then wheel them back inside for drying.
So... I can't control the outside humidity-- will that effect the paint negatively in any way?
I have 2 filters and one dryer on the air supply to the spray gun so I think I'm OK there.
The large cast iron tractor parts have been sandblasted about a year ago and still look very fresh. I have done some minor filling on them using Aluma lead. I want to do a quick "just in case" rinse/degrease using lacquer thinner before painting.
Will the lacquer thinner affect the Alumalead? It's not going to get soaked, just a surface rinse and air blow off.
Thanks guys.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:09 pm
I would not use lacquer thinner over the metallized filler; it's a mixture of
aluminum shavings and polyester resin probably, and thinner will soften it.
Clean the cast iron with TSP, then use W&G remover before spraying.

I haven't painted with the air temp as low as 50 degrees, so can't answer that.
Even with the parts being heated, it's taking a risk. With the temp being low,
the absolute humidity will also be low, so I doubt if it's a factor.

If you do try it, get the parts back inside as soon as possible, and put heaters on
them for warmth.
Let us know if that works out.
"If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:11 pm
as above no the lacquer thinner just get some wax & grease remover its cheep. I think you'll be fine at around 50 I've shot catalyzed enamel at 50 and it dried fine if you put it back inside were its warmer you'll be ok. old wives tail about catalyzed enamel was that if you wanted to save some for the next day you could put it in the refrigerator. I tried it a couple of times and it got real thick after over night, after a day or two it was semi hard. just as if it was on the bench at 70.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 1:16 pm
Thanks guys,
Any chance the Alumalead will absorb the TSP or wax and grease remover?
I'm planning to paint and then move the parts into my shop office which is heated to 68 degrees.
Again, thanks for the response

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 6:24 pm
TSP is simply a strong detergent that's good for dissolving oil and grease.
Wash it quickly and dry completely, shouldn't have any problems.
"If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army

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