At first I thought I could weld it because I didn't realize it was a leaded seam.

Then I welded it a little, and it it helped at the end of the crack but then I started melting the lead.

Is there a filler I should use to go over this area? I'm just a home do it yourself'er

Use all metal then finish with a premium filler

if it were mine I would remove the lead from that area and start fresh with a fiberglass reinforced filler such as duraglas.

Did you get the Crack welded up?

Doright wrote:Did you get the Crack welded up?

only whats in the pictures. I have duraglass, but I would rather use all metal (once I pick it up), hopefully it will be a long lasting repair. My car is a G-body, better yet a Buick Regal T-type (like grand national), I will race it and the crack will most likely come back, they all do per the turbobuick forum. People have welded it and it cracks again, the car won't be a show car.

Being that area is leaded its gonna be a bugger to clean ALL the lead out to properly weld the metal, any impurity's on the metal such as lead will make it impossible to weld properly.

You gotta melt it out with wire brush and then sand down to clean bare steel before welding. Then lead it back up after or use all metal But Im not sure if all metal will take the twisting. The original lead is softer and bonded better therefore stronger.

That's a major part of the structure for the car I would be amazed a sanctioning Racing body would let the car compete with cracks in that area without a cage. Not to mention the strength being weekend if if god forbid the car were broad sided if it is street driven.

Having problems with Wheel hop? Tire shake? Might be time for a cage don't see one in that picture? It will stiffen whole chassis up curb some of the Twisting motion during launch. What kind of times are you pulling?

Doright wrote:Being that area is leaded its gonna be a bugger to clean ALL the lead out to properly weld the metal, any impurity's on the metal such as lead will make it impossible to weld properly.

You gotta melt it out with wire brush and then sand down to clean bare steel before welding. Then lead it back up after or use all metal But Im not sure if all metal will take the twisting. The original lead is softer and bonded better therefore stronger.

That's a major part of the structure for the car I would be amazed a sanctioning Racing body would let the car compete with cracks in that area without a cage. Not to mention the strength being weekend if if god forbid the car were broad sided if it is street driven.

Having problems with Wheel hop? Tire shake? Might be time for a cage don't see one in that picture? It will stiffen whole chassis up curb some of the Twisting motion during launch. What kind of times are you pulling?

I just picked up all metal. I'll give it a try.

The car is stock, so it's not fast at all lol, but after the body is done then I will play with the engine.

People with these cars say it always cracks here, even after fixing it, it eventually cracks, but I do plan to install body braces, and possibly frame times when the car needs it.

I have had a lot of experience with All Metal. In a few years it gets brittle and cracks.

rsgt wrote:I have had a lot of experience with All Metal. In a few years it gets brittle and cracks.

Well I can use all metal or duraglass lol which one would be better?

Its now a restoration, or show car, I plan to race it so it will most likely come back, as I heard of people with these same cars, its common, and even after they fix it, it comes back

If those were my two choices, I would use duraglass.