I Know this is A loaded Question to some here but I do not trust the Guy at NAPA!
My Son has a 93 Toyota pickup 4X4 this thing for me has turned into one hell of a nightmare! The first thing he did was used aircraft paint remover on the whole truck
then he was going to rattle can paint the truck! He asked no questions from me and when I came home one day well the driveway was a mess. I had to jump in and it has been a headache since then!! Well I am at the paint stage after the truck set and started to rust. I got the rust sanded down and treated then sanded again then napa sold me two different types of primer the first I was to put down was pip102 Epoxy Primer
then a high build fp405 sandable primer, this is the next that will be done then the sanding begins again. My problem is I know my son and this project at this point is a complete restro , new motor, brakes, etc. and I know he will try to off road this truck!
So I got a 2006 Mustang GT and the paint on this car is so dam thin you can not buff this car out!
The man at napa showed me there paint system a base primer then a color primer, then the color that you want your car or truck the be ( which is a dull looking color when applied ) then the last the clear coat for the shine??
I talked to a guy that that said once the truck is ready for the paint the apply 2 good coats of your color paint then on the 3rd coat add 25% clear coat to the paint then on the 4th coat add 50% clear coat to the paint then 2 coats of clear coat
what I would like is a like the old days of painting to wear you can buff out scratches and what not.
Kyle wants a metallic burnt orange color paint
as for me I do not want some dam thin laser paint job!

any and all advice will be appreciated and thanks Bill

Bill,
My first concern would be how you "treated" the rust. Many rust converters use phosphoric acid and leave a film which causes adhesion problems.
If you treated the truck with one of these you will need to apply it one more time and then while it is still wet wash it off. I like to use a red scotchbrite pad with dish soap and water to scrub every everything then rinse. Blow dry with an air hose to get moisture out of all the seams and crevices.

When dry you can use a DTM primer (Tamco sold here is good) or shoot a quality 2 part epoxy primer. Follow tech sheets for flash times and curing before next coat.
Using the DTM primer will eliminate some steps. It is a build primer so you can shoot a few coats and block sand with 180 - 220 grit. Shoot another coat, apply guide coat and block sand with 320 just to remove the guide coat.
Wet sand with 600 to remove all the 320 scratches (guide coat will help here as well) and then be ready for your color.

I shoot a minimum of 3 coats of base to get true color coverage on most colors. Your son's color choice will be expensive. This is why they are suggesting a tinted primer coat so you won't have to spray so many coats of the base to get coverage.

You do not need to add clear coat to the base coat. I do recommend you activate your base coat using some clear coat activator (about an ounce per mixed quart).

Once the base is ready (read tech sheet) simply shoot at least 3 coats of a Euro Clear (a bit more scratch resistant when cured) and then cut and buff if needed. If you have never cut and buffed a vehicle before I would suggest and extra coat of clear be applied to reduce the chance of sanding through the clear to the base coat.

Have fun.

I agree with 68 and I too would be worried about how the metal treatment was done.

I wouldn't bother with Epoxy but would suggest using an Acid etch Primmer instead with a regular Primmer over that.

68
I say that because I know how clean you have to get stuff after using any kind of Phosphoric acid treatments, I think its just easier for a newbie to get it right the first time with an Acid etch primer treatment, just kind of eliminates the possible problems for a first timer. You know first hand what will happen if its not cleaned Properly.

That's partly why I was leaning toward the DTM primer. Kill two birds with one stone.