Summit paint?? help please.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 12:30 am
How long can i wait to buff?
I don't have any of the stuff to buff it yet but i can go get an pick something up tomorrow if it is something that needs to be done within a certain time window.
I was planning on getting everything painted, then putting the car back together and then buffing later on, it might take a week or two to get all the pieces put back together.

What would you recommend as far as a polisher? DA? What kind of compounds work good?

Do you think i should spray the single stage then sand with 600 and then spray clear, or just spray it all down at once?

BTW thank you everyone who posted, i really appreciate it a lot.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 12:49 am
Its easier to buff while the material is still "green". Once its had a few days to sit, its harder to buff. Usually you want to do it within 24 - 48 hours, if possible.

You will want to check out the Cut and Buff forum:
viewforum.php?f=7

The subject is too vast to cover in a few lines. A lot of people do it differently and use different materials. You will want to find what is available locally to you.

A rotary buffer is needed for buffing. DA or orbital is mostly for minor paint correction, however some expensive machines can do both.
The tech sheet will tell you when to spray the clear, but I think its within 12 - 18 hours - not sure. Otherwise, you could sand it with say P800 and clear it.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 3:33 am
I can tell you what I like... 1500 wet by hand with a medium soft block until all traces of texture are gone (panel has a flat appearence with no shiny dots remaining), then 3000 hook and loop wet on a DA with interface pad on it (I'm talking "palm sander" type DA here) run it at lowish speed go over the panel in a uniform way go over it left to right and then top to bottom, wont take much sanding at all with the DA. Then I do Meguiars 105 with a wool pad on a rotary buffer, keep speed around 1200-1400, do the buffer like the DA (criss cross and uniform until all the shine comes up and no haze or flat looking areas), again won't take long. Then put a foam medium cut pad on there and again use the 105 (waffle pads are the safest). Stay 1/4 inch of all edges with the sanding tape 'em off if you have to. Then you can follow up with some swirl remover with a fine cut or polish pad or do that part by hand.

Works for me



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 9:30 pm
Alright so, i got a rotary polisher.
I'm looking at what i need to get and here's what i have, let me know what you think.

Item Unit Price Qty. In Stock Cost
Rotary 4 ¾ inch Flexible Backing Plate $16.99 1 Yes $16.99
Lake Country Waffle Pro 6.5 Inch White Compounding Pad $12.99 1 Yes $12.99
Lake Country Waffle Pro 6.5 Inch Orange Heavy Polishing Pad $12.99 1 Yes $12.99
Lake Country Waffle Pro 6.5 Inch Black Finishing Pad $12.99 1 Yes $12.99
Meguiars M105 Ultra-Cut Compound 32 oz. $25.99 1 Yes $25.99
Meguiars M205 Ultra Finishing Polish 32 oz. $23.99 1 Yes $23.99
Subtotal: $105.94

Keep in mind it is black paint. will i need anything after the 205?
On the site it says they finish it with #21 Synthetic Sealant, but i'm not sure that would be a good idea on fresh paint. I just want to get a real deep black.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 1:35 am
You are correct, don't put wax or sealant on your paint.
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