Yep, that's rude right there!
Jay D.
Sanding between clear coats, 600 wet or 600 dry?
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they say my name is Jay
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Actually, I am trying to be kind. I would like to try it out myself first so if it all goes wrong I won't be misdirecting anyone else.
I promise to share my results either good or bad. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Okay, here it is.
This is a close up of the rear tail panel on the Miata. It was sprayed laying horizontal on a table. This is three coats of ********** Euro Clear with the first two coats mixed 4:1:1 with slow reducer. The last coat is mixed 4:1:1 but I added 10% retarder to the mix. This is basically slower tail solvents which allow it to melt into the lower layers and even everything out. If it wasn't for some specks of dirt here and there this would be good to go. The directions I received suggested 30% retarder in the last coat but I was afraid to go that far. Next time I'll try 20% but as you can see this lays down real nice. Also, I had a small cascade run on the front bumper. I left it alone and when I checked it today it had almost completely laid down. I will being trying this again in the future so I'll keep you posted. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Very nice, Jim.
From a chemistry perspective, there's no magic here - the slowest reducer possible will always give the best perception of gloss (due to more flow-out). Retarder is simply an extension of the dry time...think of it as turning the dial up even further on slowing down the catalyst. There are two problems to be aware of, the first you saw already -- you can very easily get sags from this, and due to the slowdown they can take some time to show up. Being in a booth helps a lot - as well as helps avoid the dirt/dust that can settle into a longer drying clear if you are in a non-booth situation. Second is anymore than around 15% retarder and you can weaken the clear coat. If anyone tells you to go beyond 15% ask them if the car is a trailer queen or an actual usable vehicle. |
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Chris,
I agree that too much cannot be a good thing. The Euro is a high solids clear and according to the ********** tech manual it can be reduced quite a bit as long as you insure enough thickness when done buffing. The runs were probably more from me shooting this clear reduced. I normally shoot it straight 4:1 but decided to up my PSI to 30 on the Tekna with 1.4 tip and try the recommended 4:1:1 rate. Also, I may have gotten careless on the second coat an didn't maintain my spray distance in that area. All in all I am happy with the results using the 10% retarder in the last coat. Another painter says he puts 5% in each coat but I would have had clear running onto the floor doing that. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6770
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
good post very interesting, I here what your saying about runs. I've always liked to stay on the slower edge of my mix but you do need to be careful. you can spray a thinner coat and it lays out like glass I does take a few more coats though. i'm working on a car of my own and I may try the retarder as you did. do you get it from ********** ? I sure like the Euro clear.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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Yes, it is ********** #925-4 and listed just below their Urethane Grade Reducers.
I am thinking with some practice you could get the clear to lay out like glass. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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