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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 10:04 am
I stripped the lacquer off my old car so I could put bc cc on it. I used epoxy primer and 2 k primer on bare metal. I thought the car was in good shape for painting because when I wet sand ever thing looked smooth while it was wet. I put the base coat on yesterday and I see all kind of small low places and scratches that did not show before. I am not sure what to do next. I have a qt of paint left that can be used on those spots if I sand thru the bc trying to fix the spots. Since it will be several days before I can cc the car what grit should I use to make sure the clear will stick to the bc after I get it fixed ? Thanks for any help or ideas on how to save the paint job.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:19 pm
Don't base it again until you are ready to go to clear within the open window. Base is not meant to be sanded...



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:40 pm
sounds like you need more primer and then guide coat to assure you sand all the low spots. did you guide coat it before you went to basecoat?



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 6:48 pm
what grit sandpaper did you use for your final blocking before priming? Did you use a guide coat and block for final sanding?
1969 CAMARO SS X66 work in progress



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 6:49 am
I think I made the low spots with a grinder getting the old paint off. I did not use a guide coat and I know there is where I messed up especially after using the heavy grit sander on the panels. Guess it calls for getting more paint after block sanding it .



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 6:53 am
1slow64 wrote:what grit sandpaper did you use for your final blocking before priming? Did you use a guide coat and block for final sanding?
I used 400 wet and dry sandpaper after epoxy primer and 2k primer .

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 1:56 am
Any chance you have pictures?
Save your paint. You will need it. I sand base coat all the time. I never had an issue. I would recommend wet blocking out the problem areas and working them to get them right. I wouldn't go past 220 grit. It will get difficult to spray over because of scratches. This is assuming you don't want to back track too far. This will help keep you in the painting stage and hopefully not fall back into the bodywork portion. Hopefully you have some other paint that you can spray as a sort of primer/filler which is close to the same color. Use it like the old fashion lacquer primer. Spray, dry sand, spray, dry sand, until it's right.

If you want the spots gone, you're just going to have to work them out. You may need more paint before your done. Priming over bc can be problematic. Sometimes it can wrinkle. Not always.

Any scratches you find can be color sanded out with 800grit wet with a soft block and a bit of mildly soapy water. (Don't make a mess=]) touch up and blend the color back to satisfactory..

If you have a paint bank, clear bc binder can be reduced and sprayed as a protective film to fill scratches just before your final base coat pass. You can blend on top of this and it does a wonderful job at hiding fine scratches.
Don't clear until you're satisfied with the base color.


I hope this helps.
Vynyard

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:02 am
Also. You can safely clear up to 48 hours later. your gonna want to tack it down really good and air dust it.

Don't ask me how I know =]
Vynyard

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 7:45 am
When I said base is not meant to be sanded, I meant before clearing, which is what he was asking about. Sure you can sand base all you want...as long as you re-base afterward.

Do you really sand with p220 before applying base? And you don't have issues with sanding scratches showing up?

Not sure about the 48 hour window for clearing, either - shouldn't we be referring to the tech sheet for the base we are using?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:02 am
I sand with 220 to cut. The extra base covers the sand marks. Then I color sand with 400, apply a little more if needed, then 800. It's a bit of work but it's not a terrible amount. I just do that when the car is masked off and I don't want to drag out a bunch of extra tools.

As far as the 48 hour window for clearing... I am PPG certified and that's what my instructor informed me and I found that it holds true. I don't recommend waiting that long, but it's just something I keep in my head. So I don't get in a rush. Some jobs can take up most of your day. In the past I have been exhausted by the time I got to the painting after body work, prep, and setting up the spray booth. As me and my dad run our small business. It didn't bother me to spray base to get the color right and proper coverage, and then call it a night. The following morning I would lightly color sand, apply one final coat of base to adjust any metallic flop and wake up the underneath coats.

You are right about adhering to the product data sheet instructions Chris. Of course. I did not mean to offer bad advice. I apologize for any confusion. I will try to refrain from giving advice outside of Product specs. I am familiar with PPG Deltron, Omni, Nason, Cromabase and Matrix. Outside of that I am not terribly familiar.

Good luck painting. I hope things work out.
Vynyard
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