Hello,

My family and I recently got into racing hydroplane boats. I may need to paint my boat if my company decides to sponsor our team.

These boats are built of primarily marine plywood and some composites (typically a honeycomb bottom panel and cockpit sides). The boats are around 9-10 feet long with open cockpits (we kneel on our knees to drive). Boat weighs about 110-120 lbs (no motor).

After build, the boats are then covered in a couple thinned layers of epoxy to seal them up.

What would be the best automotive type paint to use on them, or the best compromise in cost/safety to spray (this will be done in a homemade spray booth).

I have a compressor...CH Extreme Duty 30 gallon 2-cylinder single-stage pump. I think due to the relatively small size of the boat, this compressor will work.

I have no other painting equipment just yet. I am considering a Devilbiss beginner's kit, unless someone has a better recommendation?

Don't know if I should invest in HVLP, LVLP, or just cheap "regular" guns, like the harbor Freight ones?

The paint job will require some fine work for logos, lettering, etc.

Can I spray right onto the epoxy, or should I prime it?

I want to clear coat as well so I can use some elbow grease to color sand and buff it out (my cheap set up is going to pretty much require it for a good finish I think).

Thanks!

If it helps, attached is a picture of a C class hydro (not mine, but to give you an idea of size).

Those are nifty looking; bet they are a blast to toss around on the water.

General advice for embarking on this journey is that if this is going to be a "one off" kind of paint job meaning you want to paint one or two of these boats and then hang up your spray gun -- the cost of tools and supplies is not really economical and it's better to find someone to paint them for you.

Now if you want to stay with your plan then I would personally avoid harbor freight tools. Astro or Sharpe is going to be much better, in an inexpensive gun. DeVilbiss is just about at the sweet spot for price/performance especially for DIYers (and their higher end guns hold their own in any collision shop, too). Avoid the DeVilbiss "starting line" guns. I really wish DeVilbiss would drop them or rebrand them; they do nothing more than dilute their core brand value.

On the safety point, I don't give safety advice other than to consult with the manufacturer of the products you use and your personal physician. I can't take on the liability for giving someone pointers, other than to make a blanket statement like "you need supplied fresh air, a paint suit, gloves and full face protection or a hood". Anything less than that and you run a risk of hurting yourself. I know guys who painted for years with nothing more than a charcoal respirator, and I know other guys who got ISO poisoning just from their bare skin being exposed while painting, and had to quit the business due to this.

You should be able to paint over that epoxy as long as it is prepped properly - check your product tech sheet to be certain.

I would use an intercoat clear (e.g. PPG DBC500) for a barrier coating when doing graphics. Also, if simple graphics you could certainly clear coat the base color, do the graphics on top of that clear, then do the final coat(s) of clear. For the final clear coat, there is no better clear than the Tamco Hi-Impact clear we sell here, for this type of application -- but it is *not* for a new painter, it takes some experience and technique to lay down correctly especially on a larger surface like a boat.

Since these boats are pulled out of the water each day (I'm assuming), any good automotive grade clear coat will work -- again, take a look at the Tamco HC-2100 we sell here -- just about the most user-friendly and high quality clear I have ever used.

Thanks Chris.

Yes, these boats are an absolute blast to drive. 70MPH is incredibly fun when you're sitting right on the water (feels more like 200MPH ).

It's nationally sanctioned racing through the American Power Boat Association and is probably the cheapest form of sanctioned racing you can get into. A full race ready C class boat rig can be had for $3,000-$4,000.

I guess when I said "safe" I was more referring to types of paint that are particularly dangerous, like urethanes, for example. I just want something that is easy to spray and also as durable as possible that I can spray without any kind of super special protective gear or a special booth. We do get dings and knocks banging into each other at times, so it'll need touched up on occasion.

The paint will be solid colors (red, black and white), so nothing crazy like kandies or flake, or any of that.

Yeah, I think this is going to be a one-off deal (not looking to make it a hobby or a business for the other drivers). So, in that respect, any kind of ballpark figure you'd think a paint shop might charge? $2,000, $5,000? What would you charge for three colors with 4-5 relatively simple logos and some wording (website url type stuff) with final clear coating?

No need to requote the entire prior post when the conversation flows normally (I fixed that for ya')

Any catalyzed paint is going to be harmful, and unfortunately only catalyzed paints are going to be durable enough for your application. There are uncatalyzed marine paints out there that people seem to like but I honestly do not know if they are durable or not, or if they are typically used on things above the water line or not subject to abuse. Science pretty much dictates that catalyzed is better...

Those boats are not that large, if doing all one color and no damage repair needed, I'd say under a grand would be a fair price. Flames and airbrushed graphics will definitely drive that price up. Getting water slide decals or vinyl decals would keep the cost down...

Can I clear coat over those decals? If so, how do they look compared to painted on logos? Is it grossly noticeable difference?

Yes - most of them you can. You need to make sure the material is compatible with clearing (the sign shop or print shop can tell you), also if very glossy it helps to hit them with p1000 wet sandpaper first, for more bite. It's definitely do-able.

The only noticeable difference is you will have a little bit of a ridge in the clear coat, around the decal. If you ever see a Honda CBR bike for example, look at the gas tank - vinyl decal with clear over it. It really does not look bad at all (to me).

I'd just paint it like I wanted it. Then get decals in high performance vinyl and put them on. No need to clear over.
My daughter works at a vinyl wrap place and the owner has a jet ski thing. That graphics have held up 5 years so far.

Thanks Duraspank.

How pricey are those decals to have them made?

I think I'd still like to clear over them though. I've seen a couple boats with decals over the paint and I'd prefer a better finish. Besides, if the boat is going to be shot with clear anyway, it's not like it adds anything to do it after decal placement.