Dealing with surface rust
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2015 2:06 pm Country: USA |
I have a 65 mustang I have been working on for the last few years. I have almost all the metal work done on the car but have not been sealing it up as I go. The car was sandblasted before I started and sealed w a industrial primer. I now have a few panels and spots that have some flash rust on them. My question is would a wire wheel clean this up enough before my epoxy or would there still be micro rust in the pores that will come back later? I have the option to take it back to the blaster but I wasn't wanting to? Thanks for the help. Brent
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Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 11:33 pm Country: USA |
Impossible to evaluate the job without a visual. Flash rust on a blasted, primered surface leads me to believe the entire surface is questionable. Are the areas they primered rusting or just yours? Do you know what product they used? I have media blasted jobs to bare metal shot with epoxy that show no signs of flash rust. That is because they were correctly shot with a quality product. I would grab a DA, buzz off all that crap they put on if it is failing, and blow on some quality epoxy. Hopefully they knew what they were doing when the sandblasted the car.
A wire wheel will actually polish the surface and not provide enough tooth for adhesion. That is why a DA with 80-180 grit is used. |
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Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 6:56 pm Country: USA |
if i use a fine wire wheel on a drill it seems to do the polish thing but the courser type leave scratches? is that still not enough tooth for paint? if so im screwed on my project i got tons of nooks and crannies, not even sure how to get down in all those areas because of lines on car.
i was using one of those sponge filters and it also left surface scratches. i tried the red brillo pad type and it was slower at removing stuff and had more of a polishing effect. those are even worse on a die grinder at high rpms. |
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