sorry if i missed this in my search, i think i have made another huge mistake as a newbie painting his first car

i went to napa and they gave me their brand seam sealer in a caulk gun tube so its a 1 part.

i masked things off and tooled excess 3 days ago but the area was a little thicker on the drip rails of this vw rabbit, and that is the only area that isn't dry. the tube claims quick paint time and ability to sand, etc. but there is no way at this point.

i pushed on an area and i can tell its wet inside i was reshaping the bead. im in california its plenty warm here right now, 80's and above this week and i left it with direct sunlight for half the time each day, insulated garage during the night.

for some reason i can't find a tech sheet but i have a bad feeling something isn't right. i was looking for some input by those that have used this kind of stuff. do i let the car sit and see if it improves, or is there something i can do to make it cure?

i was trying to save some money but now i can see it would be better to get a 2 part system and move on, i still have areas to spot prime, etc. and its hautling the paint job

Hi, did the sealer ever dry? Did you find a solution to get it to dry? I am using the same sealer from NAPA and used it to fill up and seal the drip rails on a older car. It doesn't look like it is going to dry. It appears the top skins over and dries sealing in the remainder of the material so it cannot dry/cure.

FYI, I ended up removing all the seam sealer except for a thin layer. This stuff wasn't ever going to cure. The directions for this product is pretty bad. I think it can only be applied as a thin layer. What a mess

its now been 5 days for me and its 90+ degrees out during the day still and its still not what i would call dry on my drip rails. if i push on it with a tool it will leave a dent and its like i can still mold the beads a little. the other thinner areas appear to have atleast dried but appear tacky to the touch almost. i cut an area and i think its doing what its supposed to do, when i push on it it moves but bounces back to its shape.

i am still waiting word hopefully from somebody who makes it. napa don't make it, martin semour don't make it i was told they sold it to another company and im waiting for them to help.

my drip rail bead really isn't that thick so its disturbing. i used to use 1 part rv sealants that held up to uv rays and you could put it on under water, etc. and that stuff was nasty but set up good and held up rather well for years exposed all the time.

i knew i should have used a 2 part but was trying to save some $$$

it will be a nightmare to take off on my project to i had just finished the final dry sanding i had to get all my channels dug out with grinders, etc. access is terrible on my vw.

Lord Fusor 800EZ
Works flawlessly, cures quickly.

Hi, as stated in the earlier post. I used the same product, had the same results as you. I'm guessing the product is not made to apply in a thick amount. It is never going to cure. Remove all the seam sealer except for a thin layer around the bottom and sides and it will cure in a thin layer. Then you can build up more of the same material or add a compatible seam sealer that is made for a thick application. Just trying to help as I just went through what you experienced.

yuck i decided to go poking at this stuff today and it seems rotten to the core. on some sections its peeling right off the primer. i can pull beads apart from themselves so its all gooey down to its core.

i guess it won't hurt to take it down to napa and see what they say.

oh man this is about to defeat me. i am so stressed out since this car is immobile and stuck in the garage. i will never use a 1 part sealer again and got some 3m stuff with the gun.

i am still having a hell of a time getting this off and am damaging surrounding areas but just don't have a clue what to do?

i tried all sorts of attachments for drills and grinder and it heats the goop up and spreads it.

i even bought a $200 crud cutter air tool. the vidoes seemed so cool with getting rust and undercoating off without pressure on the tool, it is doing nothing but smearing the goop

i went out and bought a pressure pot blaster and its doing nothing but bouncing off the stuff, even from an angle it won't lift it even though it isn't bonded.

i tried the heat gun thing to try and scrape major chunks off but there is just smears of goop left over. is there some trick with some kind of chemical that can rewet the stuff so i can keep wiping it up with power towels and throw away?????

All you can do is keep scraping and using thinner. I've been in this business for decades and never bought one shop supply from NAPA. 1K sealers from Fusor , SEM, Transtar, and others are fine. I've used 1K and 2k and never had an issue.

You, like many novices, found out blasting does not remove seam sealer or any other substance like it. Try blasting off undercoating or powder coat next. Blasters like it when customers think the process effortlessly removes anything.

Next time you need an autobody product, go to a real jobber.