complete paint job

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 11:50 pm
as above, but when blowing off with the air hose I like to rub it with a clean rag along with the air hose.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 12:02 am
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Also, don't push real hard on your sanding blocks or you will flex the panel slightly and be chasing your tail trying to get it straight. Change the sandpaper as soon as it quits cutting.


This is absolutely excellent advice. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people using dull paper way longer than you should. By trying to reduce the amount of sandpaper that you use, it ends up costing you money not saving you money.
"My vehicles are always dressed in formal attire, wearing a Black Bowtie"



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:46 pm
Have been working on front fenders and seen at the lip of the fender a crack or torn place about a half inch long . What is the best way to fix this ? Do I weld ? Should it be done from inside or outside or is there another way to fix since it is so small ? Don't know how to post pics yet but hope to get someone to show me how soon . :allgood:



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 11:06 am
I had a small crack at the front of a fender I'm working on. I found where it terminated, drilled a small hole at each end to keep it from cracking further and welded it. I welded from the outside and ground it back down flush with the surrounding metal.

Keep in mind that if it cracked that metal was already weak so watch your power on the welder. It will probably be easy to blow through it.

And the reason I knew it was there was because the last time around on this car I didn't catch it and repair it. It only took about a year before the paint cracked right above the metal defect. Fix it now.

Here's kinda what I did only this was on a shaker hood.


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