Doing body work in sections

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:43 pm
I have searched the forum but have not been able to find this topic addressed. I am restoring a 58 Willys Wagon and am able to only work on it periodically. I have a question about how to go about doing the body work in sections. I read the sticky and saw where I should not use rattler can primer. What is the best way to protect the surface after I complete one small section of body work and move on to the next? I generally do not complete a a large enough area to warrant getting the spray gun out and all that is entailed with this? If I know I will be working on this same area in the next few weeks I have some clear liquid I got from Eastwood that I spray on that protects from surface rust. It could be 8 to 12 months before I complete all of the body work and and need something to apply for long term protection. I know that I am going to have to go back and sand everything back down but I would prefer not to have to take the entire vehicle back to bare metal. Also, due to lack of garage space the Wagon is in the driveway with a cover so it is exposed to the elements.
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Dan

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 6:42 pm
Gets some epoxy primer. Mixes 1:1 with activator and can be applied with a paint brush or foam roller for that matter.
This will protect the metal for as long as you need. When ready you can scuff and shoot your 2k build primer.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 7:43 pm
What i tell people that have similiar cirumstances as you to do is this, work on one panel at a time and get the body work ready for primer. So say a hood or fender or rear quarter, work out your dents/dings/rust/waves whatever it may be; then prime that panel. That way that panel is done, you don't have to worry about flash rust coming back and its ready to be blocked out.

Realistically even if you don't have much time to work on it, you should be able to finish a fender or a door in a week's time working a few hours a day at it. While a lot of primers "can" be brushed or rolled on, its going to make more work for you when you revisit it and I would not recommend using that method on exterior panels.
"My vehicles are always dressed in formal attire, wearing a Black Bowtie"



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:28 pm
Realistically even if you don't have much time to work on it, you should be able to finish a fender or a door in a week's time working a few hours a day at it.


I'am lucky to get 4 to 6 hours over the weekend to work on the wagon. Also, it is needing some major work including sections of panels replaced. I am in the process of teaching myself to weld and am just finishing up the worst of the damage which is a large section of a quarter panel that I have welded in 3 different sections. (see below) Hopefully after this it will go a little smoother although the roof has quite a few dents that I need to figure out how to get out so that will be a new learning curve. It would be nice if someone made the correct type of primer in a rattle can even if it cost alot. That way I would just have to go back and re-sand and not possibly have to take the entire vehicle back to bare metal. I guess I will go ahead and try the brush or roller method with the product referenced above on this quarter panel section and see how that goes.
Dan

Quarter panel cut out (Small).jpg


20160131_174836 (Small).jpg



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 7:24 am
As 68 said and you want epoxy primer the 2k is not for bare metal,water will go right thru it to the bare metal.

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