POR 15 vs. Eastwood Rubberized Rust Encapsulator?

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



Settled In
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2016 6:12 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 2:46 pm
So I'm doing another restore of my truck, which is mostly just a new paint job. The frame and the backs of the panels have been previously coated with POR 15 from the previous restoration which I estimate to have been 10 years ago. Overall it's still in decent shape, but there are many spots which are showing rust and/or have POR15 chipping off. I also have used fenders which haven't ever been coated.

So obviously with much of the truck going to be disassembled and some metal being replaced, it's a good time to redo the undercoat. The two products I've been debating between are POR15 and Eastwoods rubberized rust encapsulator. The POR15 is obviously some really tough stuff, but it seems to require a lot of prep, and I heard there's some adhesion issues on clean surfaces and previously coated surfaces. The Eastwood stuff on the other hand requires almost no prep work, all it needs is loose debris and grease cleaned off. I've heard nothing on the endurance thoigh, as it seems to be a relatively new product.

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 1755
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2016 6:53 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 7:50 pm
If I was doing a frame I would blast it.
Use some amercoat and pitthane from PPG.

Not a fan of the POR 15
Experienced Trained Certified

SATA Spray Equipment Germany
Axalta ChromaBase Elite Standox Imron 5000 6000
PPG Delfeet Deltron Global Matthews
Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Genesis
Valspar DeBeer LIC
Akzo Nobel Sikkens Lesonal



Top Contributor
Posts: 6776
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm
Location: OREGON COAST
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 11:04 am
BIG second to above. your never going to get satisfactory results trying to cover up or encapsulating rust. it needs to be removed, blasting or chemical are a few ways then coated with a good dtm coating. epoxy is good and the Amercoat products are top line.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



Settled In
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2016 6:12 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 1:07 pm
badsix wrote:it needs to be removed, blasting or chemica


Would wire brushing along with phosphoric acid then top coated work? I've used phosphoric acid for many cast iron hobby projects and have had good results, but never used it for automotive



Top Contributor
Posts: 6776
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm
Location: OREGON COAST
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 1:26 pm
phosphoric acid will work to some extent, your still not going to get it clean like a blaster will do. I had a couple of almost irreplaceable doors that were covered with small rust pits. I didn't want to sand blast them and take a chance on damaging them . but the phosphoric acid is a mess to work with and time consuming. I did talk to the person I did the doors for about a year ago he said they are still perfect that's going on about 8 years. if you have a good air supply pick up a small pressure blaster form Horrible Freight this would be your best diy way
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 1661
Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:06 pm
Location: Out in the garage.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:53 pm
I saw the Eastwood rubberized coating used on one of the TV automotive shows the
other day, and it looked good. They were using it on an off-road truck however, and
not a restoration.

I agree with the other posters, if you want it done right, sandblast and epoxy prime.
You could even do it like eating an elephant, one bite at a time. (Doing a smaller section
at a time)
"If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army

Return to Body and Paint

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 65 guests