I am new to the forum and fairly new to body work. I have done searches on this topic but haven't found the answers I was looking for. With that being said, I apologize if this is repeat.
I am prepping an 04 dodge ram 4 door for new paint. I am doing the body/block work and primer to save some money and I'll have a pro paint it. The other night I had a fender ready for primer. I sanded with 80 down to original primer, filled imperfections with very little filler, sanded and blocked with 120, blew off with filtered compressed air and wiped down with tack cloth.
Now, I live in western Pa and the night I did this it was about 55-60 degrees. According to my primer data sheet that's a little cool for the reducer I was using. I am using CrossFire CP400 epoxy primer, CH200 hardener and CR233 reducer, which according to the chart, is good for 70-80 degrees. Also, all of these are approximately 2 to 3 years old. I shook the primer and mixed thoroughly with a stir stick, no goop on the bottom and mixed to a constant color. The hardener and reducer were still "watery" no clumps, no milky color. I figured I would try it anyway, worst case id have to sand it back down. I mixed a ratio of 8 primer 4 reducer 1 hardener. Sprayed on beautify, waited the recommended 10 min flash time, gave it a second coat and left it set. After cleaning up I noticed that it had orange peeled a little but I wasnt worried because I plan to block with guide coat then put on another layer of primer right before I take it to get painted. I waited 1 week, went back and it looks good, but while rubbing my bare clean hand on it i noticed i was "scuffing" it a little. I actually took the tip of my finger and was able to rub out the orange peel. Is this normal or are my components too old and/or is it too cold. Thanks for the input
questionable painting conditions
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2 to 3 years on a can of hardener????.... plus cooler temps.... yeah, sounds like it did not "kick off" to me. With all the labor that is involved with what we do I just never take chances with the hardener. Yeah, you can get buy with cans of older well sealed paints, etc., but older hardener is just a crap shoot.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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The other thing you should be aware of is that metal temperature is not the same as ambient temperature.
You can be in 60 degree garage and the metal temperature will read lower or higher since it changes slower. Buy an infrared thermometer. They are relatively cheap ($20) and you get the actual metal temp. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
The stuff is old BUT Its epoxy and Epoxy is super slow to cure any way especially if its cold below 60-65 degrees and its gonna stop curing all together. I would get it inside with some Heat for a few days might save you from having to strip it off.
Or get a Infrared curing lamps on it. I have one similar to this but never use it http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/infrate ... 10238.aspx It fell over in the wind and broke the elements Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
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Thank you for the info guys. I actually have an infrared thermometer I just never gave thought to the metal being a different temperature. I went ahead and threw out all of my old stuff and went with new. I also purchased an infrared heater to bring the temperature up so that I can continue to work on this project throughout the winter. Thanks again for all the great info
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