I have a black 2005 GMC Envoy that has a dented tailgate and some beat up rear bumpers. I am looking for a recommendation on paints to use with a Fuji 3 stage hvlp turbine setup. I know this setup can push some hot air to the gun which can introduce some limitations. I have been reading all the 'turbine' based threads but have not yet found anything that recommends one paint over another. I know from painting kitchen cabinets, built ins and metal doors with it, I ended up trying a few paints before I found one I really liked.

The main goal is to repaint the tailgate as the paint is chipping where it got hit. If all goes well on the tailgate I would like to repaint the bumper as well.

I also plan practice on some test panels. There are two close by body shops that have dumpers full of new but dented panels which would make for good practice. I am hoping though to not have to go through tons of paint to get there.

You are not finding a particular "brand" of paint because there is not one that shoots better than another. In fact it has more to do with "adapting" your material to your set-up and conditions then it ever will with a "better" paint. It's really not that critical with a powerful turbine and good gun like you've got there. Just use the slowest of reducers, add a little more than what is normally called for and do some test panels. If you are worried about too much heat just put some freezer packs by the intake on the turbine. Remember, the turbine is increasing the "ambient" temp., so if you reduce intake air temp.s you'll still get warm air but it just won't be overheated air. And, its' just a tailgate anyway, I could do that with one of my old hotrodded 2 stage units.

I bought the Fuji several years back on Darrel's recommendation. It sprays great
and is all I use anymore. For cooling the air, I added another section of hose that
helps, and if you're painting in the middle of the summer you can coil a couple
of hose turns in a bucket of cold water.

This unit works great with waterborne (AutoAir). Use the supplied viscosity cup
to get the correct paint reduction. IIRC, you thin the paint to the point it runs out
of the cup in 22-25 seconds. With experience you can eyeball it and get a perfect
mix without using the cup. Love this gun.

Thanks. I figured this gun was okay. I have painted a lot of metal doors. Though the tolerances are higher the concepts are same.

That gun comes with a 1.3 tip. Do you recommend a different tip for either primer, base or clear?

The other reason for asking for a paint suggestion was that there are so many. Even just looking at ppg there are a bunch of differnt lines.

There is a finish master near me so I will likely go there and I am sure they will help me but I like to have an idea of what I want before going.

Okay, tips are less critical with turbine guns. I'm thinking you'll be okay with shooting any of that.... Saying that I'll just make a statement right here.... I do not shoot primers with turbine guns. I use a cheap crappy old style regular gun that goes from 1.8 up to 2.2 tips. I do this because most of what I do are overall shoots and higher solids primers and turbine guns don't get along very well. Even just warm air from the turbine can start "kicking" some of those off as you spray. Now you are just doing a couple of smaller things here so no big deal. Just make sure you break that gun down completely when you are done and get it squeaky clean inside.
I can comment on PPG, at least somewhat. See the red car in my avatar? That was shot 25 years ago with a two stage turbine system. That's DPLF epoxy primer, 3 coats of Deltron colored base, and 3 coats of 2021 clear (that was a fairly new clear at the time). Most of the paint on that car looks like the day I shot it. Now PPG does have their Shopline series which is more economical but remember you always trade off some durability/longevity with any econo products. With your gun system just don't get hung up on one product line shooting better than another.