tomsteve wrote:what was the booth setup years ago when you used a conventional gun?
maybe there is a difference there?

just going from a devilbiis startingline gun to a tekna my over spray increased. I was told it was owed to the better atomization of the tekna.

I get the booth problem and that is a separate issue. Whether or not the booth moves the particles out has nothing to do with how much overspray a particular gun is kicking out. (I guess maybe if you are holding your gun too far away from the panel? Obviously, the better movement and filtration of air in a booth the less noticeable any gun's overspray will be. A looooooong time ago, that conventional gun was sprayed in a garage a little bigger than my pvc paint booth and had no filtration or air movement, only a slightly open garage door. Just don't remember there being so much dust as what I have ended up with on the Devilbiss FLG670 HVLP as opposed to the conventional gun sprayed years ago at such high pressure.

I am finding others who are telling me that the FLG670 does have quite a bit of overspray as opposed to other gun models. Hey, you get what you pay for. I would imagine a good Iwata or Sata gun has very little overspray but good atomization. Maybe someone else can comment on guns that have the best transfer efficiency?

Good suggestions in here. Only thing I'll add is that I'd make sure my air coming out of my regulator is close to what I needed at the gun. There's a Sata video about it talking about the speed of the air if your pressure is having to be choked down too much AT the gun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDuuJvyiZiI

I have that gun - finishline 4 right? I use it for epoxy, I believe from memory the recommended inlet pressure with the trigger pulled is 19psi. 23 will definitely give you a lot more of a cloud in the air. As a side note that gun is an air hog too!

kace wrote:I have that gun - finishline 4 right? I use it for epoxy, I believe from memory the recommended inlet pressure with the trigger pulled is 19psi. 23 will definitely give you a lot more of a cloud in the air. As a side note that gun is an air hog too!

Yep, same gun.

The tech sheet on the gun reads 23 psi max with the #3 Air Cap. I still think the next spray I am going to back off until I see orange peel on the test panel and then bring it back up a bit at a time until the orange peel is gone and the atomization is right. Maybe that will help transfer efficiency the best in this regard. I have plenty of CFM.

chevman wrote:Darrel, have you tried the 3M accuspray gun? With my limited use of it, I think its awesome.

The 3M Accuspray has its uses definitely.

I'd like to try the 1.2 and 1.3 setups for base and clear.

This video shows the accuspray in use for anyone that hasn't seen.

https://youtu.be/y_DzeRWEBPI

I'm no professional, on the other hand, the guy doing the demo seems to be---but still---the gun is new to him and he probably doesn't have time to research like I do.

Just a couple of points that I noticed while watching that accuspray gun video..
When installing or removing the tip, you should pull the trigger to prevent damage to the needle.
After cleaning the tip, it has to come off to clean the needle.
Also, he mentioned a lot of texture and orange peel with the 1.8 tip, but for thicker materials they have a gun with pressure cup that works
very good. It takes a special pressure cup, but for spraying thinner materials the hose nipple on the gun can be plugged, and then the gun
is the same as the other accuspray guns and can be used with the regular PPS cups. I only used the pressure gun with 1.8 tip spraying
2k, and it laid down extremely smooth, with very little overspray.
http://www.autopartsandstuff.com/3m-165 ... ithgp.aspx

This gun without the pressure feature has all 5 tips that they offer.
http://www.autopartsandstuff.com/3m-165 ... unkit.aspx

The tips are expensive individually, so its best to buy the 4 piece sets.

I had some thin PPG DPLF epoxy and tried that with the pressure hose nipple plugged and 1.8 tip and it still laid down smooth.
I just got some 1.4 tips so I will try them over the next few days.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrH_6ttt06k

Back to the overspray issue, I did want to report my findings after spraying the Wimbledon White on these fenders,

I set the FLG 670 at about 16 psi (down 7 psi from the original 23 psi I sprayed for the red) and the overspray volume went down dramatically. I tested the material volume/air pressure on a large piece of cardboard to get it to where I had a cigar shaped pattern with good atomization. Very happy with how the fenders turned out. The red/white tutone combination really pops!

thanks fellas for the advice

great, that's good to hear, you going to be a pro paint now. just don't be afraid to make adjustment to your gun.
Jay D.