Well that makes a ton of difference.
Did you use adhesion promoter?

No I didn't, all I did was sand the paint that was already on it then that was it.

I did get some cut throughs though,and I am pretty sure where I did that's where it crinkled on me..

I suggest you read some of the posts in the Fiberglass and Plastic forum. All the advice you have received so far was trying to diagnose your problem painting metal parts. Plastic, especially raw plastic, is a whole different animal.

These were not a raw plastic, they had factory paint on them and I just scuffed up the existing paint.

I sprayed the inside first and that's when I knew my activator had gone off. So I figured I'd just leave it because you don't see it anyway.

I then sanded off any overspray, I am guessing on some areas I went to far and that's where they reacted.

I am going to rub down the effected side and then I am guessing I will need to apply a Sealer before my paint. I will do some more reading on it, but I am guessing the original finish might change a few things.

What year Triumph ?

I believe the older models were all painted over in Europe where they were made,
The Type of Paint that Europeans use is different from what we have here in the States.
The New triumph is Manufactured all over the world only God knows were they paint them now and or what type of Paint they are using?
I would do as 68 Coronet said Sand it all down and Seal it with Epoxy then Reg primer BC/CC.
I fought one of these wrinkling problems when I first started Every time I would sand it out and start over the area would get bigger and bigger always same area. I kept trying to seal it with regular Primmer. after third attempt I gave up sanded whole quarter to bare metal started over. would have been a lot easier to sand it out and seal it with some epoxy.

Haven't got a Clue on your Clear problem other than using really old activator in Clears is a No no. although there are many that get away with it all the time. You could try it out again on a Practice piece with fresh Activator? see what happens.
I just found & used a can of Epoxy and its activator I found sitting on one of my shelf's that I had marked opened and started using back in June of 2012 and some how it got left behind some car parts.
I mixed up a couple quarts of it up the other day and sprayed a bunch of Suspension parts with it and I got lucky the stuff set up nice just like it was brand new stuff. Probably a record for the Manufacture of the Paint although I'm sure they would cringe at thought of using the stuff. I got Lucky plain and simple.
At same time I also found Two can's of Brand new unopened Clear I had miss placed some how and had forgotten about one is leaking from the bottom seam a tad just a Tad bit not much just a little bubble.
I don't even wanna try it I know it has been on my shelf a a couple of years not 5 like the epoxy but a couple any way. I could try some fresh Activator in it and if it works great if it doesn't well..... I'm throwing the leaking can out period but will probably try some fresh activator in the other can.

I just went through something similar on my bike. The wrinkles are where 2 chemicals had a bad reaction. What's left is chemically damaged paint. If you just sand and seal the wrinkles will probably show though and new wrinkles may appear at the edges. Wrinkles can even appear a couple of steps later... and that sucks big time. So now is the time to fix it for good.

Sand the wrinkles off. You are going to have to be aggressive to get all the chemically damaged paint off. If in question keep sanding. When you get that done there will probably be a lot of places where the parts are down to the raw plastic. I took this opportunity to sand off the casting lines from the edges of the plastic parts.

Once everything is sanded down good spray a couple of light coats of adhesion promoter. Keep it light and even with longish flash times. If the parts are small you can hit the whole thing. If the parts are large and the exposed plastic area is small you can just spot it on. Follow with with either epoxy primer or 2K build primer. I like epoxy myself. 3-4 light coats of epoxy with good long flash times between (but within the MFGs recommendations) versus 1-2 heavy coats. Let it fully cure. Guidecoat and carefully sand flat starting with say 220, 320, 400... grits used depend on how much you need to take off. A few very, very minor sand throughs to OEM paint are OK per part. If you have anything bigger than a 1/4" or get into the plastic even a little you will need to repeat the process until you get a solid primer base to build from.

Bit of a update - I spoke to a friend who used to run a panel shop, they recommended i just strip it back to bare plastic and start fresh. Similar advice to whats been given hear.

He recommended I use a plastic bumper stripper to make life easy, spray it on. Hose it off. Great I thought!

Went down to the local paint store, picked some up. Sprayed it on, left it for a few minutes and thought sweet, its working! Went to hose it off....wasn't coming off. Before I knew it it had started eating away at my plastic piece!!!

Has gone from bad to absolutely horrible now

Live and learn I guess - never will I be using a "plastic bumper stripper" on plastic

I think it might be savable with some aggressive sanding - but I don't want to go too harsh. Its only plastic, Hoping I can get it done with some 120 gritt, would prefer 80 but worried it will leave too many harsh scratches. Either that or I will just buy a new piece...Thankfully I only did it on one!

The paint store said I won't need a adhesion promoter because the new 2k primers have it already int hem? Is there some truth to this? Even my buddy said the same thing - but here everybody seems to recommend it.

And this update wouldn't be complete without a fail photo - http://imgur.com/a/fa2lw

The bike is a 2012 Triumph Street Triple, these were extra pieces I bought in hopes to spray the same color as they were a extra option at the time - Also have a belly pan as well to do.

Holly carp man. That sux. I have always been leary of using any kind of stripper on plastic. Good thing you only did one piece.

Yeah, that's the problem with a lot of plastic strippers. Guys see it "working" and by that time it is too late with the hot solvents biting down into the plastic. Sanding/scraping is always a lot safer when it comes to plastics.

Pretty much exactly what happened - learnt the hard way!

Hopefully others following know not to bother with it on there plastic pieces!

Its worth the extra time just sanding it by hand.