Is it okay to sand and then clear coat single stage paint?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 2:24 pm
I would cut it with some 800 then go over it with 1000 or1200 then 1500 to make buffing easer. make sure you keep your paper fresh. cut with a wool pad then polish with a foam pad. do as NightTrain said do a small test area to see how it buffs out. there are a lot of variables when buffing, cure time, buffing wheels, buffer speed, compound, sanding profile, and so on.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 4:42 pm
I started a quick sanding and quick buffing on the gas cap and it does all come off with smooth edges. Its still a little bit hazy. Maybe cause I was doing a quick session only by hand using a regular costco branded microfiber towel. I used Meguiars Ultimate compound for the buffing part cause thats the only thing I had at the moment along with 1000 grit and a 2000 grit. Most of you guys recommend going up to 2000 grit, but a few youtube videos I watched went up to 2500 or 3000 is that necessary?

Heres a quick picture for all you guys. 1000 grit followed by 2000 grit and Meguiars ultimate compound all by hand. This is probably like a 10 minute effort. The surrounding areas is how the paint looks like on the rest of the body. Some parts not as bad of course.

Image



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 9:01 am
Sanding in steps is a great tool for some one who knows how to get all the previous sand scratch out and how to look for it while doing the work. by that I mean being able to get all the previous steps sand scratch out. Its not something I would suggest a first timer try you'll do a Lot of work and still have Sanding marks left by courser grit.
It is not as easy as it sounds.

That's why I suggested a Single session of sanding with 1200 Grit followed by a Wool pad and a Heavy cut polish such as Meguiars finish with Soft foam pad and a swirl remover you'll get better results faster with less work.

You also need to take into account how much material is on Car is there enough there for multiple sanding's and Multiple buffing steps after he gets the orange peel sanded out?

The best safest bet may be to Sand it out flat with 600-800 and hitting it with clear.
Hard to say I am not the one who did the work I don't know how much material is on the car.
Dennis Barnett
American airlines, Line Maintenance Mechanic & MOC Tech specialist
Allegiant airlines, Northern air cargo.
Vision airlines MOC tech specialist.
Fixing & restoring cars longer



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 4:47 am
Doright wrote:Sanding in steps is a great tool for some one who knows how to get all the previous sand scratch out and how to look for it while doing the work. by that I mean being able to get all the previous steps sand scratch out. Its not something I would suggest a first timer try you'll do a Lot of work and still have Sanding marks left by courser grit.
It is not as easy as it sounds.

That's why I suggested a Single session of sanding with 1200 Grit followed by a Wool pad and a Heavy cut polish such as Meguiars finish with Soft foam pad and a swirl remover you'll get better results faster with less work.

You also need to take into account how much material is on Car is there enough there for multiple sanding's and Multiple buffing steps after he gets the orange peel sanded out?

The best safest bet may be to Sand it out flat with 600-800 and hitting it with clear.
Hard to say I am not the one who did the work I don't know how much material is on the car.



You're most definitely right on getting those sand marks and scratches out. I have done sanding from 800-1000-1500-2000-2500 and was able to get most of the paint surface nice and smooth. Hit it with a buffer to restore the sign and finish but the the swirls are a **** and a half to get out. Can I just spray clear coat over it to get a nice shine and swirls out?



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 11:24 am
You can get the Swirls or Halograms with a very soft foam pads Blue or Black.
I like the Black and a Good Swirl remover compound like the one made by Presta.
Also keep Pads clean! Clean your Pads regularly & repeatedly through the process.
I have had to clean pads after 5 min of use!

The previous deep sand scratch is another problem entirely That's why I say just sand it once with 1200 and polish with Wool pad and a good heavy polish designed to remove 1200 grit scratch. Why create more work than necessary? Two steps are way better than 5 or 6 If you want such a finish you shouldn't be so cheap as not to want to spend money on a second coat of single stage.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/v ... ction=view

If you want to Sand it and clear it that's an option again check your Tech sheets for the paints re-coat and top coat times.
I don't know what Paint you used? Like I said before Re-coat window and Top coat windows are two different things. and are different for each manufacturer.
Re-coat would be with itself and top coating would be for Clear. Top coat can have a very small window like 24 hrs in some cases!
Some of Dupont Single stage I have used can be re-coated at any time with it self. I do not remember the Top coat time (window) it can be very small 24 hrs but It could be sanded and cleared.

Lets say I go out on limb and say its ok to sand it out and shoot your clear coat then you GO do it BLINDLY But your paint is way out of the Top coat window and You shoot your clear and it eats your Single stage OR It doesn't get a good mechanical bound with the sanded single stage as it needed a chemical bond and it all peels off, You'd be Pissed at this web sight as you would think you got bad information after you talk to some else that tells you you were out of your topcoat window and needed to do a re-coat before Top coating to get the top coat window back, THAT'S WHY WE SAY CHECK YOU TECH SHEETS THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE GOTTEN WITH THE PAINT a good manufacture will have the tech sheets available on line.

Here in this tech sheet for Dupont Chroma One system SS it says if you wanna clear it you should add another product before last coat!!!!!
then to use specific clear's, And if its a Metal flake To NEVER sand it!
It also says not to use heavy cut polishes on this product! which I already said to do!
Goes to show you You always need to read the Tech sheets for every product they are all different! Don't trust what I say or what some one else says Read the sheets!
http://www.blueridgepaint.com/pdfs/Auto ... OAcryl.pdf

You have to read your Tech sheets!!!! Not ask others how and what can be done.

By the way I do not think Temp had much to do with creating your orange peel I think Gun settings and air Pressure lighting and users experience level had a lot more to do with it than temperature ever did, Because the final coat of SS is like your final coat of clear you lay it down how you want it to look.
Dennis Barnett
American airlines, Line Maintenance Mechanic & MOC Tech specialist
Allegiant airlines, Northern air cargo.
Vision airlines MOC tech specialist.
Fixing & restoring cars longer



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 7:56 am
Yes, simply sand the finish back until smooth with P800 to P1000 and re clear. some people refer to this process as flowcoating 2K colour.
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http://www.youtube.com/c/repairrefinishtv
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