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Apologies for the long post but am hoping someone has a suggestion for my plan to repair the cracks shown in the photos. Of course, I am asking because I’d like to avoid painting the whole panel and cutting in the repair.
Many of you in the business for a while may have seen this before. The vehicle is an older Rolls-Royce and the front fenders are monocoque construction. It is common for the paint to develop cracks on the fenders at the base of the A pillars and other body joints due to body flex the lead-swiping method of finishing the body. However, this car I know had a minor collision on this fender and although I can’t find any signs of replacement, it may have been replaced. The white line seen in the crack I’m fairly certain is old wax but it could be primer or filler and I haven’t determined that yet. The photo showing the raised bubble/chip above the pinstripe started as a crack then has lifted. This is more complicated to repair for sure. However, I ask for suggestions because I have seen people that do touch up for used car lots do some incredible things. Most not, but some incredible. BTW, the cracks are 1" max as well as the bubble/chip.
Here is my plan: More Photos Below.
1. The edges are slightly raised so level the surface with a sanding pen or edge of a small slim file (like an ignition points file)
2. Create a shallow “valley” in the crack with the file or small Dremel cutting wheel and extend slightly beyond the end of the crack (maybe a stop-drill at each end or is that overkill?)
3. Fill with glazing or spot putty and wipe excess with lacquer thinner leaving no filler outside of edges and removing some from the crack but leaving some behind leaving the crack a little lower than the surface but higher than before and high enough to be fillable with touch-up paint. (any recommendation for a solvent other than lacquer thinner for this please advise)
4. Apply touch-up, dry, block sand slowly with 2500 and polish.
5. For the chip above the pinstripe, I plan to remove the loose paint and touch-up as described. This could be very noticeable unless airbrushed in.
Questions:
1. RE: color match, the paint is basecoat clearcoat (BCCC) solid gloss black. Can I use a single stage (SS) enamel or lacquer for touch-up? Although the repairs are small will the gloss be that different?
2. Or, Should I use BCCC, apply the base and then clear?
3. Or, can I mix a little clear with the base and apply in one step?
4. Should I apply a drop or two of hardener in the touch up sample, SS or BCCC ?
5. I always touch-up by hand but have used a Badger airbrush for interior leather coloring. Should I spray this? Thinking if I spray and use BCCC, reducer may affect surrounding areas? Would lacquer if available be better because not as invasive toward BCCC and any left on surrounding areas can be polished away?
BTW, If I decide to do it by hand, I plan to get a bottle of gloss black touch-up from the parts store and hope it matches before I go and have some matched and mixed.
I realize touch up is just that and is always noticeable to some extent. I’m not looking for perfection just 80% or better if possible. I also know this is not a proper repair and the cracks may return sooner than later. A short line in the paint noticeable up close is OK. It is my own car, not a customer’s. Its garaged and sees less than 1000 miles a year.
Lastly, considering the cracks are about 1/32" wide, I am just thinking to just touch the cracks by hand and leave it alone. The surface won't be level but it may look its best to do this as opposed possibly making it look worse or at the best have a wider line of touch-up paint.
Thanks for everyone’s help in the past and now. This is a great site!
Paul
