completely new to painting. I went to Napa and purchased some paint and was told I just needed the below reducer and to mix it 4:1. I have no idea what the paint makeup is as there is nothing on the label. Do I need hardener as well or just mix 4:1 and paint?

The reducer they gave me was crossfire cr733

No way to know until you find out what
type of paint you have.

most Napa stores don't have very well trained paint people. best you should get the product information sheet, and no its not the MSDS, sheet for the paint you have. it will have all kinds of information on it about mixing, what to put it over, dry times and so on. you should always get this when you buy paint materials.
Jay D.

JCCLARK wrote:No way to know until you find out what
type of paint you have.

Man goes to show how new I am to this. I did the body work, primed and surprised how good it looks! He didn't put any labels on the paint. Either way I found out it was their 56 series. I just didn't realize some base coats didnt need hardener.

Here is the spec sheet
http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/p ... t-color-56

What kind of clear would you suggest. I'm thinking 1k vs the 2k as I don't have a proper paint booth and just a simple resperator and nervous about using the 2k.

Would an older style clear work over my 56 series basecoat?

2K clear is most deffinitly the way to go.

The NAPA near me sells Finish 1. It's a cheap universal clear that is very user friendly. I have used it for various small projects, but nothing that is in the sun all day every day. As I understand it is not very durable and will loose it's shine in a year or two.

A step up from that would be for you to order some TAMCO. I have found it to be user friendly as well. TAMCO has a good reputation for quality materials at a good price.

If you have not done this before I would suggest getting an old hood or similar part and practicing. Each material sprays differently... epoxy, high build primer, sealer, base coat, clear. Each one sprays out a little different. For a quality finish you need to have your gun setup and technique dialed in.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Last questions. I sprayed the basecoat the other day and let it sit as it says I have a few days to spray the clear coat. It got a little dusty, I learned I probably shouldn't wait to clear in the future. Can I wash the base lightly with some water and dry it off before clear?

BeoBob wrote:2K clear is most deffinitly the way to go.

The NAPA near me sells Finish 1. It's a cheap universal clear that is very user friendly. I have used it for various small projects, but nothing that is in the sun all day every day. As I understand it is not very durable and will loose it's shine in a year or two.

A step up from that would be for you to order some TAMCO. I have found it to be user friendly as well. TAMCO has a good reputation for quality materials at a good price.

If you have not done this before I would suggest getting an old hood or similar part and practicing. Each material sprays differently... epoxy, high build primer, sealer, base coat, clear. Each one sprays out a little different. For a quality finish you need to have your gun setup and technique dialed in.

you let it sit for a few days ?

at this point i would sand the basecoat with 1000 and respray it. dont ever let that basecoat sit over night.....

i,m with Dave on this. i know the info sheet says 7 days but for me i would never think about going that long you should really try and schedule your time so that you can shoot the clear the same day. i would never want my based parts setting around for a few days possibly getting contaminates on it. not to mention better adhesion of the clear to base on day 1 as to day 2,3,and so on.
Jay D.

did you mix it 4:1 ? your tech sheet says 2:1

I mixed it 2:1 glad I didn't listen to the Napa guy. I don't have any basecoat left. Considering this is just a door and doesn't have to be perfect can I wipe clean and clear? I'm taking note for fit when I do my fist hole car so thanks for all the advice!