Re paint
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Settled In
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2013 2:58 pm Country: Canada |
Hi guys. Hoping you could help me out. I painted my 69 mustang with base coat clear coat then painted my parts. The color on the parts turned out a shade off so my new plan is to assemble the entire car and sand my clear so I can re base it and clear it all at once. What grit would you recommend I use to block out my clear ? Also should I just dry sand the clear or wet sand it ? Thanks in advance.
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p600. I prefer wet sanding, especially on a clear coat.
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Settled In
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2013 2:58 pm Country: Canada |
Thanks. Would you block it out at this point with a long block or would you just wet sand the peel out with a smaller block ?
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small rubber or 'soft' block; at this point you are not going to be eliminating any panel irregularities so no need for a long block when sanding clear.
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actually i disagree with the 600.
i would use 800 if a solid color 1000 if it is a metallic, you will see sand scratches in 600 if it is a metallic. you also may see sanding in the clear depending on what clear you are using. what clear do you plan on using ? Experienced Trained Certified
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hmmm...maybe I've been lucky but have been prepping for base for a long time with p600 (wet). There is a range of what would work, of course. p1000 I get a little worried about adhesion, but on fresh clear probably not as much.
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6731
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
I've always used 600 and some 800 for years and haven't seen any problems. if there's any amount of peel I would think with 1000 your arm is going to get tired, 1000 just doesn't do much. now 1000 on a DA is different, but you need to know what your doing with it.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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you guys are spraying base over 600 and getting away with it ? how heavy you spray base ?
im talking metallic and pearls 3M purple clean sanding 6in DA paper. 800 only way to cut down a car. follow that with Kovax lemon paper. Experienced Trained Certified
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6731
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
i'm talking solids and some metallic I usually shoot 3-4 light to med coats and use Chroma Base. for clear its usually been a hi solids type lately its been ********** URO clear. I will sometimes sand with 600 then go over all the flat areas quickly with 800 if its going to be a metallic color. paper makes a big difference here also. I use the cheep 3M stuff
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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Non-Lurker
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 5:53 pm Country: USA |
I attached a few pics & hopefully you can see them but it's a gray metallic... both fenders & bumper were prepped with 600 wet & there are no sand scratches visible! 3 coats of base, 1 coat with dbc500 on the fenders, & 2 coats of clear. The very top of the fenders where it meets the hood was sanded with 800 wet for the blend but all base coat areas are sanded with 600 wet. There was no color sanding, buffing, polishing, etc... just shoot it & send it! There's definitely other ways to do it but for me, I ALWAYS prep anything getting color with 600 wet & blend areas with 800 or a gold scotch brite pad... sometimes I'll use gray w/ some scuffing paste depending on the mood lol. I think a lot of it has to do with personal preference too! I try to stay away from 3m sandpaper... it's super expensive & you can buy other brands, get a lot more for your $, & get the same results!!!
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10 posts
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